You haven’t lived until you’ve taken the Shikoku pilgrimage
Hike through bamboo thickets, traverse mountain gorges and venture deep into the forest of the Iya Valley on a modern-day pilgrimage in the wild and remote region of Shikoku, deep in the heart of ancient Japan. By CATHERINE FAIRWEATHER
THE LOCATION
One of the less-visited islands of Japan, Shikoku’s sense of remoteness is felt as soon as you cross the vast suspension bridge that connects it to the mainland. It’s a journey over swirling ocean currents and lethal whirlpools followed by a breathtakingly beautiful but tortuous, mostly one-track highway that takes you to the Oboke Gorge and into the Iya Valley past swaying vine bridges and deserted mountain strongholds.
THE BACKSTORY
This is a mythological landscape of refuge and magic, with mist-wreathed mountain passes and high impenetrable forests. The Iya Valley, in the middle of Shikoku, is also part of the tour made sacred by the country’s oldest pilgrimage. The popular Shinto belief is that rocks, mountains, waterfalls and creeks have an energy and spirit of their own. Kobo Daishi, the father of Shingon Buddhism, founded the pilgrimage 1,200 years ago, and its recent growth in popularity is due to the urge to escape the daily grind of Japan’s largely urban, highly industrialized society.
THE ROUTE
Take this 88-temple circuit on foot in a pilgrim’s white uniform and conical hat as the henro (pilgrimage) staff guide you on hikes from the ancient temples up and down the forested mountain slopes of the Iya.
THE INSIDER TIP
Stay in one of the nine thatched houses in the nearby Ochiai village, with incredible views over the valley. Rush ceilings, which were once used for drying-out tobacco, soar beyond the rafter; the hi-tech Japanese automatic self-flushing toilets open to an overture of Swan Lake; and underfloor heating on polished wooden floors provides a cozy platform for the roll-out futon beds. Don’t miss the tempura supper cooked by a village matron on the terrace.
NEED TO KNOW
Book your rail pass ahead and travel on the Shinkansen trains from Tokyo to Kurashiki. Contact Discover Shikoku to organize private guided tours along the pilgrimage routes, including accommodation, drivers and train journeys. discovershikoku.com
The people featured in this story are not associated with NET-A-PORTER and do not endorse it or the products shown.