Why Mixing Metals Is 2024’s Jewelry Trend To Try
Can you mix silver and gold? The answer is a resounding ‘yes’, according to these fine jewelry brands. Here, COLLEEN ROSS spotlights the jewels that prove just how chic a two-tone pairing can be
Of the many unwritten rules surrounding jewelry, perhaps one of the most divisive is to never mix silver and gold. Or at least it was, until jewelers saw how beautiful the two precious metals looked together and began combining them in their designs, putting an end to the debate once and for all.
Buccellati never follows trends or rules. In fact, the heritage brand has always mixed different colors of gold, often with unique textures to create pieces evocative of Renaissance design. In each one, a precious metal is selected to match the colors and ‘soul’ of the gem, followed by rose, yellow or white gold to emphasize the contrasts within a single piece. “However, silver also adds ancient and precious nuances,” says creative director Andrea Buccellati. The brand’s ‘Blossoms’ necklace is a stunning example – it plays with the lightness of sterling silver and the warmth of gold vermeil in a way that feels fresh, all the while highlighting the beauty of the jasper cabochon nestled in the center.
Spinelli Kilcollin’s ‘Galaxy’ ring – a single creation of silver and gold – turned the brand into an overnight jewelry sensation. It’s made of interlocking bands – unintentionally reminiscent of traditional Russian wedding rings – that can either be stacked as one or worn across multiple fingers. Exclusive to NET-A-PORTER, the brand’s ‘Janssen’ ring has the same linked formation as the original but incorporates a thicker hammered band, while the ‘Vega’ style sparkles with scores of captivating gray and white diamonds.
Hours spent trawling through flea markets and her grandmother’s jewelry boxes for unique vintage finds inspired Yvonne Léon to design a collection of her own – one that honors traditional design rules but breaks a few, too. “The mix of yellow and white gold creates a stunning contrast and adds a unique dimension,” says Léon. “As well as using mixed metals, we also play with textures and shapes to create unique pieces.” A modern interpretation of classic signets, the designer’s ‘Mini Chevalière’ ring is a harmonious mix of 9-karat yellow and white gold – the latter framing a halo of scintillating diamonds – arranged in elegant braids. Elsewhere, a simple chain bracelet in contrasting tones and links offers a subtler take and can easily be worn alongside the single-tone styles you already own.
More than simply mixing existing hues of gold, Pomellato created its very own: a glowing peach shade of pink. The idiosyncratic alloy is juxtaposed with classic yellow and rhodium-plated white gold in the ‘Iconica’ and ‘Nudo’ collections to stunning effect. This approach allows the Milanese brand to express its colorful spirit and accentuate the beauty of vibrant semi-precious stones for which it is renowned, including verdant malachite, glowing topaz and shimmering diamonds.
Foundrae uses spiritual symbols in its designs as a means of connection, allowing the wearer to express their emotions and personal identity in a way that’s unique to them. As well as the symbols themselves, the brand understands the impact of color and texture in conveying a message. Its ‘Menagerie’ necklace, for example, is strung with an intricately engraved yin-and-yang pendant depicted in 18-karat yellow and white gold and represents the balance to be found in opposites.
“I think that having one piece that includes both yellow gold and white gold makes the mixing of metals look more deliberate and intentional,” says designer Beth Hutchens. “For Foundrae, our mixed-gold pieces are unique because of the way we create them. Every single element is casted separately and then soldered on – it gives our pieces their defined, precise details,” she adds.
But it is not only jewels that are showcasing the two-tone metal trend: Cartier offers two of its bestselling watches, the ‘Panthère de Cartier’ and the ‘Pasha de Cartier’, in stainless steel and rose gold, while the ‘Santos de Cartier’ is peppered with yellow-gold accents. Such timeless watches can become a stylish bridge that connects jewelry in different metals, making for a bold, versatile and cohesive wrist stack.