The travel editor’s tips: Paxos, Greece
One of the smallest of the Ionian islands, only reachable by boat and without an airport or the resulting hordes, Paxos feels intimate and exclusive, giving a sense that you are the first to discover its white sand beaches and aquamarine waters. And yet, at the same time, it offers enough life and lively fun to ward off island fever, as well as appealing to teens. There are only three main harbor towns, strung together by a single road that winds around the island like a ribbon: Gaios has the edge for nightlife and sunrise bars; charming Lakka sits in a horseshoe bay surrounded by the clearest seas; while little Loggos is bijou-perfect with beaches within walking distance and pretty tavernas jostling up against the seafront. Hotels are a rarity; this is a place to come with friends and family and rent one of the mostly Italian- or British-owned private villas that command extraordinary views over either the rugged, wooded western coastline or over the calmer beaches of the eastern shores.
SLEEP
For large mixed parties of up to 14, nothing beats Loggos View, a rambling Paxiot villa in the hills above Loggos, just six minutes’ drive from the town. Utterly secluded in a wooded garden estate, it’s the perfect house for different age groups, encompassing interconnecting sleeping quarters for parents with small children, a separate house and dorm for teens, plus a potential love nest for honeymooning couples. The Italian owner has an artistic eye: under the dining pergola, the cushions match the shade of the surrounding cascade of bougainvillea and there are various terraces on which to sunbathe or shade yourself on, depending on the time of day.
For other similarly large houses, Villa Marina on the southern side of the island is perfect for those who wish to moor up their own boat, while the sensational Koukouvaya lies on the vertiginous forested clifftops of the north west, with a rooftop yoga platform and al fresco Jacuzzi.
EAT
Greek island life is all about ultra-relaxed, toes-in-the-sand taverna lunches, and nowhere does it better than Ben’s Bar on Monodendri Beach. Bag a day bed, listen to music and imbibe Ben’s mother’s authentic Greek cooking in the restaurant, tiered up the hillside. This charming dining spot also offers canoes for free (which children will love), and plenty of shade under the tamarisk and olive trees.
DRINK
On Levrechio beach, five minutes’ walk south of Loggos, you’ll find Bouloukos, one of the best beach tavernas on Paxos, with rental canoes, sailing boats and a romantic, candlelit atmosphere at night. Carnayo Gold at Mongonissi beach is fabulous for sunset cocktails; the Italian-themed menu and the views over the lagoon are divine.
DO
See the island by water with the irrepressible Ioannis at Classic Cruises, who will take you on his traditional wooden caïque into sea caves and cook you souvlaki from his suspended BBQ on deck. Afterwards, visit Planos beach near Lakka for a skin-softening mud bath and rock bathing beneath the iconic lighthouse.
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