The travel editor’s tips: How to summer in Sicily
For the most romantic backdrop to live out the free-wheeling, golden days of summer, nowhere compares to Sicily and its wild, elemental islands. DELILAH KHOMO reveals three of the best areas to visit now
Pantelleria
This speck of an island situated between Tunisia and Sicily, with its dramatic black sand beaches, smoldering craters and splintered, rocky coastlines, is the more untouched counterpart to sophisticated Panarea and its high-design hotels. But now the glamour stakes have been raised with the opening of the Sikelia hotel and its volcanic spa, where you can soak in hot springs and stay in one of the exquisitely restored suites – the epitome of understated good taste. Owner Giulia Pazienza originally came to the island to grow her own wine, so Sikelia also features an expansive vineyard; dine by candlelight at the pop-up restaurant and savor a glass of the local sweet passito.
Taormina
This honey-hued mountain village on the East coast of Sicily always draws crowds for its epic views, magnificent Greek amphitheater and thriving restaurant scene (the illustrious trattoria Tischi Toschi is a must for its signature caponata – restaurateur Yotam Ottolenghi makes the pilgrimage here). The downside, however, is that hotels are packed in tight, elbowing each other for the best view of Mount Etna and Taormina Bay. Casa Cuseni, a historic 9-bedroom villa that can be booked exclusively or on a bed and breakfast basis, steals most of it. Hugging the cliffside above the bay, this hillside retreat was Greta Garbo’s favorite villa in Sicily. Everything is still gloriously intact: a rare Frank Brangwyn mural decorates the dining room, while the living room and library are filled with ancient Islamic ceramics, a Picasso ink drawing and letters from Tennessee Williams. The bedrooms – including Garbo’s namesake suite – come with sea-facing terraces.
Favignana
Butterfly-shaped Favignana, just five miles south of Sicily, is best known for its unique, jagged coastline interrupted by small coves and quiet, sandy beaches. It’s the most popular of the three Egadi islands – the style set, including Miuccia Prada and photographer Glen Luchford, have been snapping up restored stone villas here. Hole up in the Light House, a new architectural gem that sleeps eight across two main buildings and comes with a fabulous slate-lined pool tucked away within a walled garden. With expansive views towards the Cala Rossa, the Light House maintains its own kind of low-key magic, with plenty of hangout spots, rooftop terraces, and shady quadrants full of pomegranate trees, cacti, palms and endless olive groves. Evenings revolve around trips to the town’s legendary ice cream parlor, La Pasticceria, to savor the signature peach, fig and blood orange ice cream and knock back negronis with the local fishermen.
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