The Smoky Eye Just Got A Major Update – Here’s How To Wear It Now
The classic smoky eye has been infused with a little something extra on runways and red carpets of late. Here, MALENA HARBERS shares three ways to create the look, but not as you’ve done it before…
The buffed-out bottom liner
An emphasis on adding drama to the waterline was the makeup trend to try from New York Fashion Week. With myriad references to ’90s makeup for spring/summer ’25, it’s an easy and modern way to update the era’s notoriously bold eye makeup. The bottom-heavy eye look at Christian Siriano was dark and dramatic (and paired with a chrome lid if you dare), while at Kim Shui, color on the waterlines was expertly buffed for a nearly airbrushed effect. And, while barely visible, some models at Ralph Lauren had a decidedly subtle smoky bottom liner that felt ultra-sophisticated yet distinctly fresh. Natural-looking lashes, spa-day skin and a full, groomed brow kept the overall look polished, clean and entirely daytime appropriate. For even more post-sundown glam, you can be a little more heavy-handed when applying color – but be sure to still buff it out and blend visible edges for a truly seamless finish.
The single-color smudge
A matte, black eyeshadow can often veer into outdated territory, so celebrity makeup artist Violette uses a cobalt-blue shade for a more youthful effect. “All you need are two fingers and one cotton bud,” she says. “I start by patting eyeshadow all over the lid using my ring finger. Then, I use my middle finger to smudge and blur the edge of the shadow [to avoid] obvious lines. I don’t care about it being a mess, either – I just take the cotton bud and clean up under the eye afterwards. The whole thing takes two minutes.”
If a bright, block pigment isn’t for you, you can still inject a little color using a neutral shadow instead. Makeup artist Sheika Daley, who works with Zendaya, opts for a hue that’s two or three shades darker than your natural skin tone. “I love a pinky nude. I’ll take it all over the eye and really blend it out, over the crease and almost up to the brow, so that it’s nearly invisible and gives a beautiful halo of color. Then I add a pop of shimmer on the center of lids, a black liner, and lashes to bring the drama in.”
The elevated evening twist
The pro secret to this take on the classic technique is about layering up color. While the amateur approach is to go in with a single dark shade to create that smoked-out effect, the experts first apply a different hue or texture as a base layer underneath – choose from a satiny hot pink, metallic bronze, or even silver-colored glitter. This pop of color and contrasting texture not only intensifies the black, navy or indigo applied on top, but also makes color look three-dimensional, not flat. We love midnight shades of black, deep chocolate brown, amethyst and navy layered over a shimmering bronze for a truly glamorous and moody eye. Balance it with naturally dewy skin and a neutral lip to finish.
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