6 Of The Best Retinols For Your Skin Type
Retinol is hailed by dermatologists as the gold standard in anti-aging – and with good reason. SUZANNE SCOTT uncovers the best retinols for your skin
The word retinol has become a blanket term for a handful of vitamin-A derivatives (including retinoids), which, when it comes to softening lines and improving skin tone and firmness, dermatologists agree are the most hard-working anti-aging ingredients at our disposal. But which is the best retinol for your skin type?
BEST FOR SOFTENING LINES: Augustinus Bader The Retinol Serum
The best retinol has been shown to boost collagen production and improve hydration over time, which equals less-obvious lines and wrinkles. In this coveted formula, Augustinus Bader pairs the transformative power of retinol with its signature TFC8 (packed with high-grade vitamins and amino acids) for a wonder serum that truly plumps and strengthens skin from the inside out without the redness or peeling typically associated with the gold star ingredient.
BEST FOR IMPROVING SKIN TEXTURE: Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Advanced Retinol + Ferulic Overnight Texture Renewal Peel
Using retinol while you sleep makes sense. In fact, we now know this is the sweet spot for skin repair – so adding this anti-ager to your night-time arsenal will only help boost cell turnover. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare has teamed a professional-grade dose of retinol with ferulic acid and niacinamide to strengthen skin while boosting skin-cell renewal so that skin becomes softer, smoother and more even-toned. It’s a winning combination.
You can use these pads with a retinol serum, too – massaged twice a week into skin at night, after cleansing, they’ll speed up visible results.
BEST FOR HYDRATION: Auteur Definitive Retinol Serum
What we love most about this glow enhancer by Auteur is that it combines encapsulated retinol, AHAs and high-powered hydrators such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides – so that you get all the benefits of retinol without the dryness. The result? Brighter, more radiant-looking skin come morning. Pat a pump or two onto cleansed skin every other day (start off applying it less often and work up to more), then follow with your favorite moisturizer.
BEST FOR BALANCING OIL: MZ Skin Advanced Retinol Complex Serum
If you have oily to combination skin, or are prone to a little midday shine, this new retinol serum from Dr. Maryam Zamani is a winner. It not only packs a punch on the retinol front – pairing retinol with a retinoid complex – but there’s also backuchiol in the formula. This plant-based retinol alternative helps to control skin’s oil production, so you’ll see a more refined, balanced skin finish. Equally, you’ll find all the hallmarks of a good skin serum in this winning mix, including vitamin E to protect the skin barrier and minimize potential skin irritation.
BEST FOR ADVANCED USERS: 111Skin Celestial Black Diamond Retinol Oil
At 1% pure retinol, this oil is not for beginners. It is ideal if you have used retinol previously, so have built up a level of resistance, and if you’re starting to see more pronounced signs of aging. It’s potent for an over-the-counter product, which means it’s very effective at softening lines and wrinkles and reducing the appearance of age spots. It has also been formulated in a way that allows it to penetrate further into the skin and so have more of an effect. The retinol has been combined with calming vitamin E, omega-3 and omega-6, so you shouldn’t see the kind of irritation associated with a strong retinol.
BEST FOR FADING PIGMENTATION: U Beauty Resurfacing Compound
Dark spots have an unwelcome habit of appearing on the tops of hands, around the hairline, the upper lip and neck area and, while partly down to genetics, they are almost certainly made worse by UV exposure. Treat them with this retinol, which has been combined with antioxidant vitamins C and E to help repair skin damage and neutralize free radicals brought about by UV rays and aging. Use this best-selling cream twice a day for two weeks to kick-start your new glowing complexion.
What is retinol?
Retinol is the strongest retinoid you can buy over the counter and without a prescription from your doctor or dermatologist. Essentially, retinols (and retinoids overall) are molecules that prompt retinoid receptors, or proteins, in the skin to trigger collagen production.
What are the benefits of retinol?
Because retinol helps your skin produce more collagen, it can reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles, sunspots and patches of unwanted pigmentation. While it does this, the surface of your skin naturally becomes smoother, brighter and more even. Additionally, the best retinol helps to speed up cell turnover, which is something that naturally slows the older we get – and one of the reasons skin starts to look less youthful. Faster cell turnover equals fresher, brighter, smoother skin – plus it helps to fade accumulated patches of pigmentation.
What is the difference between retinol and retinoid?
Retinol is a retinoid – and all retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A, which prompt the skin to produce collagen and increase cell turnover. Retinoid is the name given to all such vitamin-A derivatives, which include retinol, but also others like tretinoin, a retinoic acid also known as Retin-A. The real difference lies in their strengths. Retinols sit on the milder side, so they are used in skincare products, while Retin-A is very strong and can therefore only be prescribed by a doctor or dermatologist for specific skin conditions.
How to use retinol
The trick is to work retinol into your routine gradually. Begin by using it once a week and, if your skin responds well, go up to twice a week. Do this until you’re using it most nights. If your skin feels irritated, go back to one night a week and allow it to acclimatize before starting to increase usage again.
It’s best to use retinols at night, because they can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Then follow up with an SPF the next morning.
Only ever use one retinol product at a time. If you’re using a retinol serum before bed, don’t be tempted to use a retinol-based mask that same day, too. You won’t see better results for using more; you’ll just create irritation and sensitivity.
If you’re using a retinol serum or oil in your evening skincare routine, the time to apply it is after cleansing – on dry-ish skin. And that’s it. Don’t layer it with other serums and definitely don’t use it alongside an exfoliating acid such as glycolic, lactic or kojic.
If your skin feels sensitive, or you find the initial stages of using a retinol particularly drying, massage a generous amount of a very hydrating moisturizer over the top. A favorite of mine is La Mer’s Crème de la Mer Moisturizing Cream.
The model featured in this story is not associated with NET-A-PORTER and does not endorse it or the products shown