How To Get Your Basic Skincare Routine Right
Spring can be the perfect time to press refresh and rethink your skincare routine. But a great complexion starts with the basics – cleansing, repairing and protecting. Getting these right – and knowing what to use, and when – will make all the difference, says NEWBY HANDS
IN THE MORNING
Only wash if you need to
Some skin needs that morning wash or cleanse, while other skin doesn’t. Aesthetician Angela Caglia gave up morning cleansing more than 20 years ago and has never looked back. “If you have dry skin and cleanse it properly at night, then you don’t need to do so again in the morning,” she says. While this may not work for oilier skin types, it’s worth trying if your complexion is chronically dry. In fact, it made me realize that most of my morning regimen was just rebalancing the drying effects of using a face wash and water. If you like that morning-fresh feeling, just splashing your face with warm water or using a toner or essence may be enough for you.
Use vitamin C
In all the confusion of what to use and when, the one key ingredient you do want on your skin during the day is vitamin C – dermo-pharmacist and formulator Dr. Colette Haydon says it’s an “absolute must, as it has so many benefits”. It’s a potent antioxidant and boosts collagen production (strong collagen equals great skin) – plus, to a degree, it can limit UVB damage.
Choose a separate SPF
You can’t guarantee that you are getting the right level of protection by using just a face cream or foundation that includes SPF, so always use a standalone SPF. Most of the newer daily SPFs come in a beautiful texture with added skincare benefits or with a glow-giving tint – but, either way, ensure it’s an SPF product first, with added benefits. The new Ultra Violette Future Fluid SPF 50+ Superlight Skinscreen is a new favorite all-mineral formula (based on lightweight zinc from Japan) that feels utterly weightless on skin and leaves a luminous, blurred finish.
Protect yourself
I’m not a fan of barefaced beauty because, contrary to popular belief, skin doesn’t need to ‘breathe’, and if there’s pollution in the air (and where isn’t there?), I’d prefer those particles to stick to the pigments in my makeup than my bare skin. But this doesn’t mean you have to wear a full face of makeup every day. The newer blends of skincare with light coverage, such as Westman Atelier’s Vital Skincare Complexion Drops, are brilliant, and when you remove them, you are removing some of the pollution, too.
YOUR AM ESSENTIALS
IN THE EVENING
Cleanse properly
“In the evening, it’s all about your cleanser,” says Dr. Haydon. “Foaming washes don’t go deep enough to reach inside the pores.” And neither do face wipes, as, at the end of each day, you don’t just need to remove makeup, but also SPF and pollution, which degrades the skin. Cream or balm cleansers that can really be worked into your skin are the most popular with experts.
Use a retinol
Ask most skincare experts about retinol and you’ll find it’s part of a good basic regimen. It’s the gold-standard (and scientifically approved) ingredient to reverse skin aging, and also helps normalize the skin. The trick is to start low and go slow to acclimatize your skin to it and avoid the infamous redness, irritation and flakiness that retinol novices usually face. Dermatologist Dr. Dendy Engelman advises applying your retinol just two to three days a week to start. “Also, layering it with your moisturizer [always underneath] ensures your face stays hydrated wherever the retinol is applied,” she says.
Up your hydration levels
Water hydrates the skin and oils nourish it. Don’t get confused between the two, as all skin types – including oily skin – need more water. Whether you use a hydrating hyaluronic-acid-based sheet mask, serum or cream, make sure your face is fully hydrated every day. More than just making skin look plumper, glowing and less lined, good hydration also keeps it healthy and able to function as intended. Put simply, skin can never be too hydrated.
Always use a face cream
Never skip this step, as it helps seal in the hydration, but make sure you choose the texture that suits you best. If necessary, think about switching your night cream for an overnight mask to really nourish dry or dehydrated skin.
YOUR PM ESSENTIALS
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