Art of Style

From family and friendship to business partners: meet the women who did it together

Mothers and daughters, sisters and friends – GRACE COOK speaks to the entrepreneurs who have turned their personal relationships into pioneering, female-led fashion labels

Fashion

Bernadette and Charlotte de Geyter, Bernadette

“We are intergenerational women, designing for women who are like us,” says Bernadette de Geyter, co-founder of the Antwerp-based Bernadette, which she founded with her daughter, Charlotte, in 2018. Trust and compromise are at the heart of mother and daughter’s work process. After deciding on a seasonal mood, they each go away and design individually, later coming together to share their drawings. They then sit, as they would around the family dinner table, to discuss, tweak and perfect each sketch. “We will always try to understand each other’s point of view as much as possible,” says Bernadette.

Yet the two women are undoubtedly opposites. “My mom knows what women want without them having to try too hard – like the perfect little black dress,” says Charlotte, who studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and hand-draws the label’s botanical prints. “Whereas I want to challenge women and make them wear something they didn’t think they needed. A dress to make you smile every time you see it.” And while it’s a surprise to be working with her daughter, Bernadette says that, to some extent, it was all set in stone. “Charlotte always knew exactly what she loved and exactly what she hated. You could tell from an early age that she would always have a strong opinion about fashion.”

I want to challenge women and make them wear something they didn’t think they needed. A dress to make you smile every time you see it
Charlotte de Geyter
Charlotte (left) and Bernadette de Geyter are the daughter-and-mother team behind Belgian brand Bernadette
Italian sisters Vera (left) and Viola Arrivabene founded their luxury-slipper label, Vibi Venezia, in 2015

Vera and Viola Arrivabene, Vibi Venezia

“The Furlane [shoe] has been part of our life since the very beginning,” says Viola Arrivabene, who grew up in Venice, along with her younger sister Vera and their three other siblings. This soft, rubber-soled slipper, which was originally created to protect the paintwork on Venice’s prized gondola boats, is as much a part of the sisters’ childhood – and Venice’s landscape – as the magical city’s twisting waterways and golden architecture. Whenever the sisters would visit friends in other parts of Italy, a prelude of texts preceded each visit, asking the duo to please bring slippers in their friends’ size. So, in 2015, they launched Vibi Venezia together – a collection of luxurious slippers based on their beloved city’s everyday shoe, crafted in Venice from jewel-toned velvets that look just as dreamy worn with jeans as with an evening dress. “Because we shared the same passion, it was natural to start the brand together,” says Vera.

When they were younger, though, The sisters never imagined they would go into business together. “We were best friends when we were little, but we fought a lot when we were teenagers,” laughs Vera, referring to that quintessential teenage rivalry and a clash of personalities. She describes Viola as “exuberant and creative” and says she is more organized and reflective. “We were almost enemies until I went to boarding school at 16,” says Viola. But now, the duo is inseparable. “It was only then [when I left home] that I understood how valuable it is to have siblings; that no matter what, they would always be on your side,” says Viola.

That contrast in personalities is beneficial for running the brand today. Viola leads on the creative side, while Vera takes care of the numbers and the logistical, everyday running of the label. “We’re the best team in the world,” says Viola.

Because we shared the same passion, it was natural to start the brand together
Vera Arrivabene

Ilona Hamer and Peta Heinsen, Matteau

In 2011, stylist Ilona Hamer was looking for a simple, black, well-fitting bikini; and her sister Peta (then working in marketing) was looking for a creative outlet from her office-based job. The solution, for both of them, was Matteau, a swimwear and beachwear label that’s become renowned for its minimalist aesthetic and precision focus on fit. Having grown up in Sydney, Australia, often frequenting the city’s famed Bondi Beach, the duo knew a thing or two about swimwear and saw immediate potential in their fledgling idea. Ilona was working at Vogue Australia and was aware there were few brands offering the types of swim styles she herself wanted to wear.

Launching Matteau was a natural next step. “As sisters, we regularly caught up – and had been talking about what it might be that we could work on together,” says Ilona, who is the creative energy that complements Peta’s business acumen. “But we never thought we’d have a family business to the extent that we do,” adds Peta. “Our mom and other sister come in and help when it’s busy, and my eldest daughter is starting to get involved with the brand, too. It’s a really special thing.” This dynamic feeds into the business as well; the duo’s first two employees are still part of the team. “We really treat our team like family and we like to foster that… being able to communicate openly and honestly – and being approachable.” They also dedicate time to socializing with staff outside of work hours.

Ilona says that working with family is “less stressful” than one might think. “We trust each other to make decisions in isolation if the other is not available and we have different skill sets that work harmoniously together,” she says. “There’s an unrelenting bond that cannot be broken – and a trust that cannot be replicated in a different business relationship,” she says. “It’s the ideal scenario for us.”

There’s an unrelenting bond that cannot be broken
Ilona Hamer
Ilona Hamer (left) and Peta Heinsen are the sisters behind Australian swimwear brand Matteau
Mia (left) and Brittney Rothweiler are the sisters who dreamed up the concept for New York label The Range

Mia and Brittney Rothweiler, The Range

The Rothweiler sisters had always wanted to work together, but hadn’t yet figured out how. That is until they dreamed up the concept for The Range, an ongoing collection of what Mia calls “chic, core pieces to build your wardrobe around” – think utilitarian jumpsuits in businesslike pinstripes, button-up knitted tops and tailored track pants that are infused with a sense of New York cool. “We’ve had to navigate our whole lives together, play sports together, travel together, be each other’s confidantes, share our goals and dreams, and build a real partnership in all aspects of life,” says Brittney. “So working together was the natural next step for us.”

Combining Mia’s background in sales with Brittney’s retail and design experience, the inseparable duo also enlisted the expertise of friend David Helwani, who brought a production prowess – they thrive on each other’s support and fondly refer to the brand as the “brainchild” of the family,” says Mia. “Being sisters who grew up so closely, and who also have a similar sense of style, helped us really establish ourselves as genuine in a wildly competitive market,” she says. “It helps us create a line that genuinely resonates with the customer,” adds Mia.

Launched in 2017, The Range has swiftly become a cult label, with fans including Jennifer Lopez, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Sienna Miller. “We love being on this crazy ride together, to see the business grow side by side; and we love that we get to spend so much time together,” says Mia. “There’s no one else we would be able to get through the ups and downs of starting a business with. The highs are so much higher when you get to celebrate together.”

We’ve had to navigate our whole lives together… so working together was the natural next step for us
Brittney Rothweiler
Friends Chiara Capitani (left) and Romy Blanga founded their fine-jewelry brand Eéra in 2019

Chiara Capitani and Romy Blanga, Eéra

A camping carabiner is perhaps an unlikely source of inspiration for an Italian fine-jewelry label. But it is this unconventionality that pervades Eéra, which was founded by friends Chiara Capitani and Romy Blanga in 2019. It all started during a trip to Tokyo, when the duo came across some discarded ephemera in a vintage market and were fascinated by its open-and-closing mechanisms. Chiara says their “mutual love of jewelry” soon led to the idea for an earring, inspired by the industrial silhouette of the carabiner but rendered in diamonds and neon PVD. And today, these are oft-found fastened to the ears of Dua Lipa and Hailey Bieber.

The pair first met through work several years ago in Milan, when they were starting out in the fashion industry. Romy was working in fashion PR and Chiara as a creative consultant, and they ended up collaborating on several projects. “We had a connection immediately,” says Chiara. “It helps our working relationship that we became such good friends. Over the years, we’ve developed strengths that complement each other and aid our creative process.” They say this mutual understanding and respect has developed into something of a shared creative language. “Though our individual tastes may vary, they still blend seamlessly,” Chiara adds.

Romy agrees. “We’re always very open to one another’s ideas and will always try to find a way to combine our visions equally into designs. Working with a friend means you already have a good dynamic and you know what to expect from the other person,” she says. “It really creates a sense of ease and makes the time spent together [at work] really enjoyable.”

Working with a friend means you already have a good dynamic and you know what to expect from the other person
Romy Blanga

Molly Howard, Meredith Melling and Valerie Macaulay, La Ligne

It was a mutual love of stripes that brought colleagues and friends Valerie, Meredith and Molly to launch La Ligne in New York in 2016. Amalgamating some 30-plus years of combined industry experience (Meredith and Valerie worked together at Vogue, while Molly was formerly head of business development at Rag & Bone), the brand focused on creating luxury everyday pieces with compelling price points – think rugby-style cashmere sweaters and Breton-striped cotton tops. In other words, trusted staples that women would wear on repeat, no matter the season.

And while the clothing can err on the understated, the main word bounced around between the trio when it comes to working together is “fun”. Meredith says that Valerie was her “favorite editor to attend fashion events with” while at Vogue, while Molly, who met the duo during her tenure at Rag & Bone, says she was “always drawn to how much fun they were to be around – even in a work setting. It made me confident that working with them was going to be easy,” she says.

This meeting of creative minds, and the instinctive nature of support, means that business meetings are always fruitful. “There is very little ego to get in the way of leaning on each other for those places where the other can really shine,” says Molly. “We have a respect for each other that goes beyond just respecting each other’s work skills – we respect each other as friends, as family at this point. We are happy to let each other take the lead.” Valerie agrees: “That idea of female camaraderie is very present within the three of us. Nothing exists in a vacuum ­­– and to be able to foster each other’s ideas and grow them is what makes the clothes better.” The power of three, indeed.

We have a respect for each other that goes beyond just respecting each other’s work skills – we respect each other as friends, as family
Molly Howard
Molly Howard (left), Meredith Melling (center) and Valerie Macaulay are the three friends behind La Ligne, known for its Breton-striped tops and luxury everyday pieces
Tania (left) and Ladan Shayan launched LA-based jewelry brand Shay in 2002

Tania and Ladan Shayan, Shay

Jewelry has long been a tradition in the Shayan family. “When Tania was born, I designed a set of diamond heart earrings and an ID bracelet to give her when she was older,” says Laden Shayan, co-founder of the LA-based jewelry label Shay, which she runs with her daughter. Tania says this created a “deep connection with jewelry” and describes her mom’s safety-deposit box, where all her jewels were kept, as a “treasure chest.”

In 2002, the two women established Shay. The brand was an evolution of Tania’s high-school hobby, but it was Ladan who said they should sell her jewelry to stores. Today, they each occupy these early-set roles. “We’ve naturally gravitated towards our strengths,” says Tania. “I manage the business side and personally inspect every piece of jewelry. Ladan is much more of a risk taker; she gives me that confidence to step outside the square.” And the best thing about working with her mom? “We never doubt each other, or our intentions,” she says. “It’s a dream come true.”

We’ve naturally gravitated towards our strengths. I manage the business side and personally inspect every piece of jewelry
Tania Shayan