The Fashion Memo

Get dressed with Ada Kokosar

As a bona fide fashion polymath, it should come as no surprise that consultant, creative director and, now, cult footwear designer ADA KOKOSAR has flawless personal style. Here, she shares the secrets of her effortless yet eccentric aesthetic

Fashion

Fashion has always been a part of my life

Ever since I was a child, I’ve been interested in fashion. I think it was from watching my grandmother – who was extremely elegant – from a young age. One of my earliest memories is of spending a day at the beach with her – she was wearing a kaftan that matched her bikini, and carrying a huge parasol. She was so glamorous; her style was always impeccable. Some of the most special pieces in my closet are bits of clothing I kept from her collection. My style is all about color, proportion and layering – I like to dress according to the occasion and what’s on my agenda that day.

COLOR CHAMELEON
Kokosar likes to experiment with fashion, and her distinctive style is all about color, proportion and layering

I relish a challenge

I can’t believe I’ve had the opportunity to revamp an amazing brand like Paciotti. The first thing I did was visit its archive and dive into its rich history – I found some amazing stories there, like the fact that the brand designed shoes for Gianni Versace’s fashion shows. I didn’t feel intimidated taking on a label with so much history; more excitement. The important thing for me was not to break completely with the past; I wanted to retain a thread of continuity and create a collection that really spoke to the Paciotti woman, who, in my mind, is independent, effortless, sophisticated and classic – with an edge. A sort of Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy character.

SHOE AND TELL
For Kokosar, shoewear is all about comfort, individuality and personality – not just following a trend

Your choice of shoes says a lot

The perfect shoe is the protagonist of your outfit – it should start your look instead of finish it. The silhouette you wear on any given day says a lot about your personality and how you want to be perceived. There’s a reason that shoes are so fetishized. However, it’s also important to remember that comfort should be your biggest priority. My designs come from gaps in my own closet, but they’re never dictated by trends; I want my pieces to be enduring. When I’m in the studio designing, I am constantly imagining our woman, and what she would do and where she would go in the shoes.

Stay true to yourself

When it comes to makeup, less is more. I just use it to accentuate my natural features, so I tend to stick to a light liquid foundation – Laura Mercier has a great selection – Marc Jacobs mascara and Nars blusher. I’m the same with my hair: it’s an entity unto itself, so I just grow it long, leave it loose and let it do its thing – with a little help from Oribe oils. My real priority is skincare, and I have a regimen that I stick to morning and night. I’ll even do natural peels and oxygen masks when I’m on a long-haul flight. My other top travel tip is to have an Epsom salt bath after you fly, as it helps to detoxify your body.

I admire creativity

Top of my wish list this season would have to be a statement piece by Christopher Kane. I was so glad when he won the Designers’ Designer at the 2019 Fashion Awards – he’s one of the most innovative designers at work today and so deserving of the recognition. I really love what he does. Of course, I am a huge fan of loads of other labels, too. For a special occasion, Rodarte and Valentino are amazing, but for my day-to-day life I love comfort, so I live in the likes of Joseph and Lemaire.

RUNWAY STYLE
Valentino (green dress) and Christopher Kane (silver outfit) are two of Kokosar’s favorite labels

Milanese style is personal

Last year, I moved back to Milan after seven years in New York. In that time I’ve seen a huge change in the city – there is much more youthful energy and excitement, and not just in terms of fashion. What I like most about Milanese style is there’s always a personal touch and a narrative to it, a story to tell. You might hear a little memory or anecdote attached to someone’s choice of scarf, for example. As Italians, we have an ingrained appreciation of beauty; it’s part of our culture.

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