Travel editor’s tips: Isla Holbox, Yucatan, Mexico
North of the well-traveled beaches of Tulum and Cancun, this tiny, sleepy island is a hidden Mexican gem. By CATHERINE FAIRWEATHER
A two-hour drive away from the frenzied energy of Cancun, accessible only by boat from the mainland port of Chiquila, the sleepy Isla Holbox has a pace set by the languid rhythms of nature. In summer, pelicans scoot over 15 miles of virgin white sands, along which whale-sharks commute on their annual migratory routes. Come winter (average temperatures drop just below 80°F between November and April), when the rising surf and winds bring in an international crowd of kite surfers, flamingos congregate in the lagoons in amorphous pink clouds. Cars are prohibited on the sand-carpeted streets of this tiny island; only cycles and carts map the tracks between the town and the beach, where a few guesthouses and hideaways lie hidden behind the palms. Days unfold lazily, starting with sun salutations and ending with tequila sundowners in the little beach shacks strung along the shore.
STAY
Since 2003, Cuban artist Sandra Perez has been preserving the peace and environment of this paradise from her guest house CasaSandra, ensuring the recycling of water and refuse, and upholding regulations that no building is taller than 40ft, or the height of a palm tree. The 18-room hotel occupies a central stretch of beach (even the simplest rooms have sea views), a short stroll from the main piazza. Perez runs the place as though it were a private retreat, filling the space with her friends’ colorful artworks and inviting over musicians for weekend Cuban party nights. Furnished by local artisans with carved wood, hammocks and vivid textiles, the style is rustic-chic and the vibe is relaxed as can be, with complimentary yoga and Pilates on the beach, bikes and golf carts available for guests, and al fresco cinema nights on Fridays. The excellent restaurant, Ser Esencia, highlights the passions and talents of chef Alonso Sosa with fresh ceviche and lobster linguine, while the bar on the beach is a fabulous destination for a sunset caipirinha.
MUST DO
Hire a kayak and steer into the Yum Balam Reserve, where alligators surface among the mangroves and fish eagles dive out of nowhere into seas that twitch with fish.
DRINK
For live music, mezcal cocktails and tapas, Luuma is the place to be, romantically lit just by tea lights. Av Damero 310, Holbox
DINE
Tiny Rosa Mexicano, with just eight tables, is a must for the signature coconut shrimp and octopus with black bean relish. Calle Tiburón Ballena, Holbox
INSIDER TIP
Take a tour of the Ek’ Balam ruins on the mainland, a much less visited site than Chichen Itza – the heart of the ancient Mayan kingdom, it was completely swallowed up by jungle and only rediscovered in the 1980s. Then make a detour, 16 miles away, to the town of Valladolid for shopping and grazing, stopping at exclusive perfumery Coqui Coqui to buy rosa secas, the scent inspired by Yucatan, and Tequileria Poncho Villa for the best selection of the national spirit.