The Chicest Ruby, Sapphire And Emerald Rings To Add To Your Wish List
Coveting a little color for your ring stack? CHARLIE BOYD explores the bold, bright hues of the ‘big three’ gemstones
While diamonds have a pure and simple wow factor, there is something ultra-special about vivacious, bold gemstones. It takes a connoisseur to spot an outstanding ruby, sapphire or emerald, as their exact shade, color saturation and provenance are subtle but serious factors. Setting these gems within rings allows them to truly stand out – our hands are expressive and always on show to those around us. Slip colorful gemstones into your everyday ring stack or eschew a diamond engagement ring and, suddenly, you’re making a statement.
In gemological terms, rubies, sapphires and emeralds are the ‘big three’ gems – the most well-known colored stones that have commanded high sums for centuries, often showcased within crown jewels and priceless artifacts. Early civilizations were instinctively drawn to vibrant color and didn’t have the lapidary technology (the practice of shaping gemstones) to unleash the full sparkle factor of diamonds, so these colored gems were highly prized, and believed to have mythical, otherworldly and even divine powers. Today, the colored-gem market is enjoying somewhat of a revival; in recent months, auction houses have witnessed extraordinary sales for rare colored gems, and fine-jewelry designers continue to revitalize these ancient stones with cool, contemporary design codes.
If strong color doesn’t faze you, a ruby will elevate your ring-stack styling in a flash. “I love the formality of rubies – they have such vivid and pure coloring that lends itself well to one-of-a-kind pieces,” explains Octavia Zamagias, founder of Los Angeles-based brand Octavia Elizabeth. Setting rubies within her signature 18-karat hammered gold, Zamagias focuses on releasing the most intense color possible from every stone. “Rubies are often cut in their country of origin, which can mean that the finished, faceted ruby doesn’t look very lively and is an irregular shape. To highlight the natural beauty of our rubies, we generally buy and then re-cut them so that we get a beautifully faceted stone with lots of vitality,” she explains.
While the cut and quality of each gemstone is crucial, it’s also important to be realistic about the durability of these gems, as some are much softer than diamonds. “Rubies withstand daily wear well and don’t need to be as meticulously cared for as emeralds need to be,” explains Zamagias. This renders them ideal for everyday stacking styles – eternity rings by Shay, Suzanne Kalan and Jennifer Meyer make for a harmonious mix. Looking for an instant pick-me-up piece? A ruby pinky ring by Yvonne Léon, L’Atelier Nawbar or Kamyen will add a dash of uplifting, irreverent red.
Sapphires offer a slightly subtler color pop, but both gems are forms of corundum – a hardy mineral that makes them suitable for everyday wear. Technically speaking, sapphires that showcase a deep royal blue hue are the most highly prized, such as those chosen by Spinelli Kilcollin, Pomellato and Marla Aaron, but many people prefer ethereal, baby blue tones. “There’s such a wide variety, but I’ve fallen in love with this cornflower-blue shade, which offers a watery, sea-like hue that fits our ‘Anchored Forever’ ring perfectly,” says Cece Fein-Hughes, founder of Cece Jewellery, who nestles her gems in romantic star settings. Retrouvai’s ‘Pleated Band’ ring, meanwhile, displays a delicate lavender shade – subtly hinting that spring is around the corner.
Similarly well-pitched to celebrate new beginnings, emeralds can symbolize new life and fresh starts. Filled with unique, natural inclusions (patterns within the stone) called ‘jardins’ that spread throughout each stone like delicate roots, their verdant and organic feel is impossible to ignore. Certain brands specialize in celebrating this individuality, such as House Of Meraki, which works exclusively with Zambian and Colombian gems, widely celebrated as the world’s most beautiful examples.
While large emeralds can be quite vulnerable when set within rings – they are relatively soft on the hardness scale so can be easily scuffed or scraped – smaller stones work well for petite yet punchy bands, such as the cult ‘Wave’ ring by Marlo Laz. “I always bezel-set emeralds for protection,” explains Jesse Lazowski, founder of the New York-based brand. “I think the fragility adds to the mystique of the stone, as it requires extra care and attention; I also love to combine them with white diamonds and blackened gold – it gives a modern twist with a bit of an edge,” she explains. Marina B, Sydney Evan and Amrapali London follow suit, using emeralds as delicate yet daring accents to gleaming yellow gold. “Emeralds are in a league of their own – they are revered,” says Lazowski. “They symbolize growth, vitality and rebirth – just hold one and you will feel it.”
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