How To Channel The Bow Jewelry Trend This Season

Occasionally, a single piece of jewelry can set a trend on fire for an entire season or longer. Enter Sophie Bille Brahe’s ‘Peggy Rosette’ necklace, a delicate string of white freshwater pearls that loop playfully into a jaunty bow. And just like that, bows were back. “Sophie Bille Brahe really nails the feminine yet fashionable aesthetic on the head,” says Edwina Hilton, fine-jewelry buyer at NET-A-PORTER. “Be it hearts, flowers or bows, she knows how to avoid the generic connotations that come with these motifs and reimagines them in her own unique style, making it fresh and cool enough to entice us all.” Bille Brahe has continued the bow theme with her ‘Rosette de Perles’ earrings, while also echoing the design in diamonds with her ‘Rosette de Diamant’ single earring – the perfect petite flourish to subtly channel the trend.

Those seeking a colorful exploration of the theme should seek out Mason and Books, a New York-based brand renowned for its quirky and cute bow motifs. Founder Jamie Books says the emblem developed organically, with four petals creating two hearts, and the two hearts joining to create a beautiful gift. “The ‘Evie’ bow was inspired by the birth of my daughter; the idea that she is the sum of love from her grandparents to parents, all coming together to create this perfect little gift,” she says. The three central diamonds symbolize past, present and future, and Books urges her customers to remember that today is a gift, so why not put a bow on it? To create the colorful ‘Berkeley’ styles featuring turquoise, sapphire, chrysoprase and emerald, the label also employs professional lapidaries, who have the combined artisanry expertise of more than a century and deliver perfectly finished pieces with irresistible gleam.

Generally speaking, bows are considered to be a universal sign of femininity, but dig a little deeper and you’ll find that wasn’t always the case. “When you think of Minnie Mouse or other characters from our youth, they always used a bow to indicate the feminine,” explains Books. “In the 1800s, however, bows were originally worn by men. Our bow is strong, heavy and solid – a nod to the strength of a woman. Even with the soft drape of the petals, there is a weightiness to the pieces that celebrates feminine resilience and strength.”

Similarly, London heritage jeweler David Morris has expanded the identity of a bow beyond its lofty and traditional grandeur, with its Beaux collection carrying no connotations of frills and fuss. Instead, the modern, almost plump profile of its designs speaks to a playful interpretation of the motif. “We wanted to revive the bow motif, but with a modern spin that would appeal to a younger clientele looking for pieces that are fun and express personality, with designs that she could wear day or night,” explains CEO and creative director Jeremy Morris.

Looking to the maison’s archive, Morris explored bow-inspired designs from the 1970s, ’80s and ’90s, and also wanted the collection to evoke the rolls of silk ribbons and trimmings in London’s chicest haberdashers. As a result, pavé diamonds are used to evoke the texture of velvet, catching the light to emphasize the bow’s curves and pleats at every angle. “What I love about these pieces is that they combine a vintage quality with a clean-lined, contemporary silhouette that feels so new. Where bows may have once had a delicate reputation, the Beaux collection makes a bold and glamorous statement.”

The 4 key jewelry trends to know in 2023

5 chic ways to wear pearls now