The Key Jewelry Trends To Know In 2025
Elevate your fine-jewelry collection with desirable pieces that are perfectly in step with the current mood and sartorial moment, says CHARLIE BOYD
Emeralds
Despite being naturally occurring treasures, gemstones can - much like handbags or hemlines - very much be of the moment. In the 1980s, blue sapphires were the jewel du jour – largely sparked by Princess Diana’s sapphire and diamond engagement ring, which went on to promote another surge in sapphires in 2010, when it reappeared on the ring finger of Princess Catherine of Wales. Now? Emeralds have taken the lead, usurping the rich blue hues of sapphires with their verdant vibrancy. “Emeralds, especially paired with yellow gold, are very of the moment,” says Emily Johnston, fine-jewelry buyer at NET-A-PORTER. “They’re an especially great purchase at this time of year because they’re colorful enough to speak to the last balmy evenings of an Indian summer and the boho outfits we’ve invested in this season, but will also add a succinct pop of color to monochrome and neutrals as we shift into fall/winter styling – let Ileana Makri’s serpent earrings sing against a cream cashmere sweater, or pair Irene Neuwirth’s emerald and 18-karat gold ring with a black cocktail dress.”
’70s tubogas chains, chokers, and cuffs
“There are few cooler periods in jewelry-making history than the 1970s and ’80s,” says Johnston. “Designers were turning to utilitarian and industrial objects to inspire metal-heavy jewels that focused on form rather than precious gems, and it led to some of the chicest designs that are now considered icons,” she continues. Marina B’s ‘Trisolina’ necklace features the tubular silhouette devised for Bvlgari’s Tubogas designs, and its titanium and silver springs allow it to rest perfectly upon the décolletage – perfect for a plunging neckline. Meanwhile, L’Atelier Nawbar’s ‘Starry’ cuff will effortlessly slip into an existing stack of chunky bangles. “Chokers were another mainstay of the era, but if they don’t feel all that wearable for everyday wear, try a more delicate design such as Shay’s white gold and diamond style, which gives Studio 54 energy in spades.”
Jumbo beads
While long, swinging strings of layered beads tend to remind us of summer styling, the FW25 runways were championing single strings of jumbo, supersized beads that felt distinctly fresh for the season ahead. “Major maisons such as Ralph Lauren and Saint Laurent have brought beaded necklaces with bold energy firmly back to the fore, while others crafted balloon-sized pearls blown up to surreal proportions,” says Johnston. This trend is definitely one for the maximalists out there. “Carolina Bucci has interpreted the trend deftly with her rhodonite and quartz beaded necklace, which feels worthy of Betty Flintstone. It’s impossible not to smile at its oversized orbs,” she adds. Irene Neuwirth has also taken lapis lazuli as her muse with a graduated bead necklace that will liven up a classic white shirt, while Ananya’s cult Chakra bracelets are available in myriad natural hardstones with glittering diamond bars – the turquoise style will suit all skin tones.
Black gems
There is an old adage in interior design that every room should include some black accents to add balance and contrast, and the same can be said of a fine-jewelry collection. “Black enamel and onyx can add a jolt of modernity into a wrist stack or slew of chain necklaces, and it offers the perfect contrast to sparkling white diamonds,” says Johnston. “David Webb’s ‘Radiator’ earrings ooze 1980s glamour and will immediately elevate any tailored maxi-coat, while those who prefer white gold tones can look to Kamyen – the maison’s 18-karat white gold and diamond choker uses black enamel to subtly enhance the scintillation of its stones.” If you err towards gray rather than black, try blackened gold or silver – Repossi’s minimalist cuff will toughen up the aesthetic of any wrist stack – with a fabulous flash of diamonds.
Chocolate tones
As we move into the season of falling leaves, painterly scenes in shades of umber and orange and pumpkin-spice lattes, it’s no surprise that we lean towards earthy tones in our fine-jewelry styling. “Jenna Blake has adopted a sophisticated color palette for fall, using brown silk cord in her 18-karat gold and diamond necklace; while British brand By Pariah’s ‘Orbit’ earrings hero smokey quartz in a deep, coffee hue that will perfectly complement a kohl-lined eye,” says Johnston. “Those with paler skin tones can opt for the honeyed gleam of colored gems, such as Loren Stewart’s ‘Sunny’ gold, sapphire and citrine single earring. These are the hero pieces to pair with this season’s penchant for animal-print outerwear.”
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