The Working Wardrobe: Amalie Gassmann
AMALIE GASSMANN’s résumé runs from model to filmmaker, via a whole spectrum of creative achievements. Here, the LA-based talent talks to GEORGINA LUCAS about the power of storytelling – and why fashion should be all about having fun
Listening to Amalie Gassmann’s dizzying list of accomplishments, you’d be forgiven for feeling a little intimidated – model, creative director, photographer, writer, filmmaker – Gassmann has packed a lot into her 26 years. Born in San Francisco, she grew up in Paris, attending runway shows with her mother, an art historian who “connects the dots between artists and fashion brands”. After being scouted when she was 12, Gassmann eventually signed with modeling-agency giant IMG at the age of 16. “I feel like that was very standard for the time,” she says.
A consummate multi-tasker, she graduated high school while modeling for brands such as Saint Laurent, then studied film production at Bard College in upstate New York. Today, we’re speaking via video call at the tail end of New York Fashion Week. Gassmann's walking a show tomorrow, and next week she flies to Milan, then on to Paris – “I pack my whole closet,” she tells me, with a smile. Now a seasoned pro, she takes the pace in her stride and, bar the pandemic, has been working the fashion-week circuit for eight years. “Modeling has shown me how the industry works,” she says. “Being with adults and professionals from a young age taught me how to talk to people, how to hold myself in different environments.” She seems wise beyond her years, which is perhaps the result of growing up fast. “I’ve always felt like an old soul; I’m very nostalgic,” she says.
Gassmann had recently relocated to Los Angeles when the pandemic hit. The pause allowed her to develop her photography and filmmaking skills, working with notable magazines, such as Interview, and brands like Fendi. “It was a blessing in disguise, being surrounded by amazing creatives. I was able to shoot a lot – photography, film work, fashion videos – everyone wants video these days.” Indeed, with the speed at which technology and social media are transforming the fashion sphere, honing a multidisciplinary approach seems a savvy yet passion-driven move by Gassmann.
“I want to stay authentic to each brand I work with, respect its history and ethos, then have my own interpretation of what the brand means to me
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Behind the camera, the cross-section of her influences plays out in work that is imbued with sentimentality, stillness and a touch of melancholy. “My style has always been cinematic,” she says. “There’s an edge to my work; a rawness.” However, at the heart of every discipline is storytelling, “which is integral to me,” she says. “I love the way my mother works – worlds colliding, fashion and art informing each other. If I’m creative-directing, it’s with a filmmaker’s eye; if I’m modeling, I’m thinking about the way the photographer is telling the story.” All roads lead to the ultimate goal of creating short films, including Mess is Mine, which was released in 2020, and is inspired by Wim Wenders’ 1984 film Paris, Texas. “It’s very Americana – gas station, motels, road trip – through the lens of a German director. I’m German, French, Japanese and American, so I identify with that – exploring those ideas from the inside and the outside.”
Like her work, Gassmann’s style is chameleonic. “I like being a shapeshifter,” she says. In part, it’s a professional necessity: “I want to stay authentic to each brand I work with, respect its history and ethos, then have my own interpretation of what the brand means to me. With one brand, that’s very clean, elegant, a strong independent woman; with another, it’s a cool girl who’s open to experimenting and can be a little bit edgier.” But there’s a sense that it runs deeper, and comes back to both narrative and identity. “I love transforming into those different people,” she says.
Embrace experimentation
“My style is eclectic, playful. I love fashion and I’ve been surrounded by it for so long that I love experimenting. One day I might wake up in the mood for baggy, low-rise pants, sneakers, a tank top and a blazer; another day, a mini skirt and some boots. Maybe one day I’ll settle on one style, but, for now, I love having fun with it.”
Be inspired by menswear
“When I first started going to fashion week on my own, I was into menswear – baggy pants, sneakers, oversized leather jackets. Then, I transitioned into more feminine pieces – a corset top always elevates a look. I love a chic suit, too, but still with a menswear influence. Acne Studios’ tailoring is insane – I tried this blue suit for an event in LA and I’ve been thinking about it ever since.”
“My day-to-day is masculine and clean. Then, when I go to events, I love dressing up and feeling a bit more mature, but still fun
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Find the joy in dressing up
“My day-to-day is masculine and clean. Then, when I go to events, I love dressing up and feeling a bit more mature, but still fun. The Proenza Schouler dress is a beautiful example – classic, super-glamorous, very strong. It’s covered up, but sexy; a reinterpretation of sexy.”
“I love classics with a twist – a texture, a color, standout pants or skirt, a bold shoe, a chunky boot, a statement bag… but balance is important
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Mix influences
“I’ve moved around a lot, so I have multiple influences. Paris is more mature and clean – it’s all about the big coat in Paris, being comfortable, but still super-chic. LA is fun, but New York is more fun. New York is all playful textures, experimenting with prints, knitwear and layering. LA is sexier, I dress more girly in LA.”
Create balance
“I love classics with a twist – a texture, a color, standout pants or skirt, a bold shoe, a chunky boot, a statement bag. But balance is important, so, with a mini (I love that the mini skirt is back), I’ll wear a long-sleeved shirt, so there’s not too much skin on show – it balances the mini and feels more elevated.”
Add jewels
“Jewelry always refines an outfit, particularly a casual look. I love rings, especially pinky rings – bold, colorful pieces – plus layering necklaces, mixing pearls and silver pendants. For the evening, I’ll add a statement necklace with a playful detail, too.”