How To Become A Summer-Wine Connoisseur, According To Sommeliers

“This is an action that makes even the most inexperienced appear a pro,” says Chanel Owen, head sommelier at Michelin-starred London restaurant Pied à Terre. “By moving the liquid in the glass, you agitate the aromas in the wine, making them more accessible and able to ‘leap’ from the glass. You want to achieve an even, ‘vortexing’ swirl that has the wine moving up the glass – but at an equal height all the way around, rather than undulating and splashing about. I use the following two techniques: 1) While holding the stem of the glass near the bottom, make a small circle, about the size of a pound coin with the foot of the glass. If you tend to put your little finger out when holding the stem, try to focus on that to make the circle, rather than the glass itself. 2) By holding the stem mid to high, the circle can be focused on the bowl of the glass. This is more of a wrist rotation than a circle. Think of mimicking Queen Elizabeth’s diminutive royal wave whilst pinching the stem.”

“Temperature is integral to your wine experience,” Owen says. “Too warm, and texture can be overly rich and lack refreshment, while flavors become unrefined. Too cold and texture can become fractured and flavors numbed. Be mindful of how wines can evolve and how you can influence their outcome.

“I encourage all wine drinkers to enjoy their wine however they like it, but ice in wine puts a pang of pain in my soul,” she continues. “Pop some frozen grapes in the glass instead. The berries will chill your wine but don’t release water, which avoids diluting it.”

It’s worth getting specific on temperature, says Nadia Khan, head sommelier at London’s Michelin-starred Frog by Adam Handling. “Seven degrees Celsius [45 Fahrenheit] for whites and rosés [sparkling whites and rosés need to be enjoyed even cooler], and 14 to 15 Celsius [60 Fahrenheit] for an unchilled red. At these temperatures, the aromas will express at their best.”

“The color of a wine tells you a lot about the vinification process used to achieve that specific style,” says Khan. “If the winemaker has chosen to let the grapes macerate in their skin for a certain period, a white wine can gain orange nuances. A rosé that is very bright, with tones of deep pink and ruby rather than pale, salmon-pink, might have been made through the saignée method instead of direct-press. Both these stylistic choices are reflected in a deeper color, but also a different aromatic profile and taste.”

While there is no absolute rule, Owen cautions: “Whites with a tint of green are likely to have a grassy, herbaceous tone, while lemon colors tend to indicate floral or citrus tones. Deeper golds can indicate aging from lees [dead yeast cells that add a buttery texture], oak, bottle, or all three. A touch of orange can be a sign of skin contact and texture [tannin] in wine.”

“Chilling the right red wine can release acidity and bright summer-fruit elements, as well as making the wine more refreshing in the heat,” says Owen. “Go for something light-bodied and young. Tannin and body can be uncomfortably extenuated by cooling it down. A Beaujolais works very well, unoaked Sangiovese really comes alive, as do warmer-climate, New World Pinot Noirs. We also can't forget a sparkling red. Lambrusco – hear me out! – has made a cracking resurgence with some small artisanal winemakers. And Australia has seen some wonderful productions of vibrant sparkling reds, as well as demi-sec styles from Jura in France.”

Khan is also a champion of reds in the summer. “There are amazing styles of Gamay, Zweigelt and Pinot Noir that can be served slightly chilled. One of my favorites is an indigenous Spanish variety called Trepat, which we serve at Frog in our esoteric section,” she says. “It shows bright, rich-red fruits and a vibrant texture that complements meat, fish and vegetable dishes beautifully.”

“High acidity and aromatic varieties can accompany a great range of fresh summer flavors. An off-dry Riesling with ripe exotic fruit flavors, round texture and sharp freshness can really complement Greek salads, crispy fried fish and grilled vegetables, while also bringing balance on the plate when paired with spicy Asian dishes,” says Khan.

For Owen, bright summer flavors lend themselves to grassy and floral tones, “echoing the bright summer breezes and fruitful season. And a little salinity on the nose, replicating sea-filled afternoons, works very well with charred meats and fresh seafood alike.”

She also favors tropical flavors, “whether that is a Californian toasty-oaked Chardonnay that is a Piña Colada in disguise, a zippy passion-fruit-loaded Clare Valley Riesling or a mandarin and yuzu-laced Orange from Sicily,” she says. “Apart from that, reflect your surroundings or evoke searing sunshine with bright, sun-enriched flavors or a refreshing, citrus-rich twist.”

“As soon as you discount a wine style or close yourself off from a variable of wine – whether region, grape or style – you miss an opportunity to develop and learn. I like to go off-piste and try something new,” says Owen. “Regardless of the level of establishment, I like to have recommendations. I usually frequent smaller independent restaurants for casual dining and the teams I meet there – and who know the food better than any guest – will always have some favorites.”

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