The Chic Sleep: Hotel Café Royal, London
Indulge in the most glamorous of city breaks at this palatial paradise in the heart of London. By Travel Director CATHERINE FAIRWEATHER
I love a grand hotel (doormen who greet me by name and hail me a cab, cocktail bars for secret assignations, and old-school concierges who can secure you a table at the fully booked Wolseley). London’s iconic establishments The Savoy, Claridge’s and The Ritz have signposted the most important moments of my life; christenings, engagements, break-ups, make-ups, and weddings, of course.
The Hotel Café Royal is another grande dame, revamped but still occupying the old beauty spot on the curvaceous end of Regent Street. It has been part of the social fabric of London life for more than 150 years. Here, scandals broke, reputations were cemented, and social and political history was made. Winston Churchill was a regular and it was from here that he awaited news of his political fate. Oscar Wilde held his own council of war here with George Bernard Shaw, deciding to sue the Marquess of Queensberry (who wrote the rules for boxing at the hotel) for libel, when he accused him of having homosexual relations with his son Bosie. It was a move that ultimately landed Wilde in jail. Both the Oscar Wilde Bar and Green Bar pay homage to his memory and his beloved absinthe cocktail. You can also enjoy a Ziggy Martini, named after Ziggy Stardust, David Bowie’s alter ego, who was ‘killed off’ at a ‘Last Supper’ he gave here for his friends in 1973.
The high jinx continue at The Club at Café Royal, though members are more restrained these days, which is more than you can say for the décor after the reopening of the hotel in 2012. David Chipperfield Architects spent three years bringing the legendary hotel into the new century, and you’ll now find complex (and sometimes baffling) technology installed to control temperature, mood lighting and curtains in your room, plus a sensational holistic underground spa that includes a 60-foot swimming pool.
The six historic suites are some of the best in the city, particularly the Dome Penthouse, with its copper rotunda, three soundproofed bedrooms and stunning garden terrace overlooking London’s loveliest landmarks.
THE DETAILS
Sleep
The Regent Suite looks out onto the nerve center of London (though it is as quiet as a tomb with its triple glazing and Portland stone bedrooms). Huge windows frame the iconic statue of Eros and the zigzag of red double-deckers down to the gothic silhouette of Westminster, as well the neon flashing signs of theater land and Piccadilly Circus. There’s also a private kitchen and direct access to the spa.
Recharge
Book a guided water meditation at London’s first Watsu (aquatic therapy) pool, located in the hotel’s Akasha Holistic Wellbeing Centre. Our other favorite water-based treatments include a heated marble hammam.
Dine
Papillon, the hotel’s restaurant, draws a stylish crowd with its healthy, simple menu. Breakfast moves seamlessly into lunch and tea and cocktail hour in this glamorous European-style café.
Pose
Tea time is a must in the OTT Oscar Wilde Bar – a symphony of retro camp with Diptyque-scented candles, champagne in 1920s-style coupes and photogenic sweet treats. Book in advance for afternoon tea and stay for cocktail hour with live entertainment, cabaret, DJs and after-hours dancing.