How To Buy The Best Jewelry, According To Industry Insiders
Hoping to invest in fine jewelry but not sure where to start? CHARLIE BOYD speaks to three jewelry consultants to get their advice on how to begin building a stylish collection
Mirta de Gisbert, founder of Mirta de Gisbert
A passionate lover of jewelry since childhood, Mirta de Gisbert began her career with an internship at Jessica McCormack, before going on to achieve her GIA certification and work in Sotheby’s jewelry department. Now, de Gisbert runs an international jewelry-consultancy business from New York, with a mantra that your entire life should inform your jewelry purchases – not just your preferences for particular stones or precious metals.
“I ask a series of questions, ranging from what item are you looking for, to what’s your favorite city and hobbies,” explains de Gisbert. “I want to understand your style not only in jewelry but in clothing, design, travel – everything informs the other. Learning about hobbies provides me with insight into how much you use your hands and therefore how much wear and tear a ring might get,” she explains. According to de Gisbert, when looking for necklaces or earrings, even how you wear your hair should influence which piece you pick.
When asked to list the keystone pieces that belong in every jewelry collection, de Gisbert prioritizes heart over head. “Jewelry is a form of self-expression that offers wearable, tangible memories,” she explains. “I would say that, above all, choose a piece that evokes emotion and tells a story; [jewelry should] make the wearer feel happy, confident and add a pep to their step when worn.”
De Gisbert’s ‘must-own’ pieces can be categorized into zones of the body: for the ears, she recommends everyday diamond studs, and a fun, casual pair of earrings that can be dressed up or down. Necklace-wise, de Gisbert suggests a clutch of pieces that can be layered, along with a statement piece that is summer-centric, plus another that can be worn all year round. For wrists, she highlights a tennis bracelet, a cuff, and a bracelet stack that combines fine and demi-fine pieces, while a ring collection should include at least one pinky ring, an eternity ring and one standout cocktail ring.
Sometimes, according to de Gisbert, the right jewelry purchase requires a little bravery. “There is such an abundance of jewelry, and it can feel overwhelming for clients to select pieces for themselves that truly resonate with them,” she explains. “Many times, clients have told me they go for the pieces that are worn by everyone else because it doesn’t require as much thinking or time on their end.” A little self-reflection in relation to your current jewelry wardrobe can help, too. “It’s important to understand what has influenced your current collection – were they gifts in which you didn’t have a say? Or are you at a point in your life where you are ready to grow into a different version of yourself?” Therein lies the fun.
Beanie Major, founder of In Detail
Starting her career as a jeweler, Beanie Major worked for Tiffany & Co. and Shaun Leane before establishing In Detail – the blog that would ultimately lead her to setting up her own London-based jewelry-consultancy business. “I focused on interviewing women about their jewelry collections, and it quickly became a trusted destination for discovering unique and design-led jewelry,” she explains. Now, Major advises her clients on how to buy jewelry that really means something to them. “It’s tempting to dive straight in and talk about the jewelry with my clients, but I prioritize getting to know them, as I want them to have a strong connection with the pieces I source,” she says.
When searching for a new piece, Major states it can help to start with what you already have. “By identifying gaps in a collection and considering a client’s budget, I aim to guide them towards a timeless and cherished piece of jewelry that reflects their individuality, and steers clear of fleeting trends,” she says. “Going through someone’s jewelry collection can reveal much more about them than their taste preferences; each piece of jewelry tells a story and is often linked to a significant place, person or milestone in the person’s life. My aim is to create beautiful stories that will someday be passed down generations along with the jewels.”
There isn’t, however, a one-size-fits-all formula. “When it comes to building a jewelry collection, the key pieces will vary hugely depending on personal style, but starting with some jewelry-box staples is always a good idea. Classic earrings, such as diamond studs or gold hoops, as well as a simple gold-chain necklace or line bracelet, are versatile pieces that can be worn daily, and serve as a foundation to build upon with different styles and designs,” says Major. The holistic feel for the pieces you’re buying is also crucial. “It’s important to prioritize buying pieces that you love and feel comfortable wearing,” she adds. “While certain brands may carry prestige and recognition, the primary consideration should be the aesthetic appeal, craftsmanship and overall quality of the pieces.”
Sarah Royce-Greensill, founder of SRG Jewel
During her longstanding tenure as The Telegraph’s jewelry editor, Sarah Royce-Greensill was constantly approached by friends and contacts seeking her advice on what to buy. “I realized that not only do a lot of people find the process of buying fine jewelry difficult and intimidating, but many of the most talented jewelers I had met and written about remained something of an insider’s secret,” she explains.
Royce-Greensill’s London-based consultancy business, SRG Jewel, was born from a desire to connect jewelry lovers with unique craftspeople, and when it comes to buying jewelry, she believes the first step is to really get to know your own style. “For people who are making their first significant fine-jewelry purchase, their collection usually consists of inherited or gifted pieces that don’t always represent their personality and style,” she explains. “Part of the fun of the process is learning about what suits you and what you like, rather than what you think you should own and wear.”
Royce-Greensill finds that visuals can really focus the mind, too. “Often, I’ll show clients ‘this or that’-style mood boards to get a tangible sense of their preferences, as it’s sometimes difficult to know what you like or dislike without a visual reference,” she explains. “I always tell people that you don’t have to know all the answers straight away – this is all about getting the brain whirring,” she says. A solid starting point? The ultra-wearable fail-safes. “I would always start with the pieces you will wear every day, like a great pair of small hoop earrings, a bangle or bracelet that you can wear with everything, and a pendant or two that are meaningful and transcend trends,” she suggests.
So, when buying a new piece, should financial investment and resale value remain front of mind? “I would never recommend a client to view a jewelry purchase as an investment, unless we’re talking about super-rare, fancy-colored diamonds,” says Royce-Greensill. “The nature of the jewelry industry is such that, for the vast majority of purchases, the sentimental and emotional value of a piece of jewelry outweighs its inherent resale value,” she adds. “The comparison with buying art is apt: do your research; make sure you are buying something authentic and well-made from an artist you trust; and, ultimately, if you’re buying something to display on your wall (or your body) rather than keeping it in a safe, buy something you love.”