PORTER Previews: Margiela in Paris

When Martin Margiela launched his eponymous maison in 1988, he immediately set himself apart as a subversive figure in the industry, presenting garments with radical proportions and deconstructed finishes, and refusing to stamp his clothing with the company name, opting instead for four white stitches framing a blank space where a label would usually be.

In April 1997, Margiela was appointed creative director of Hermès and during his six-year tenure, he married his pared back re-definition of modernity with the Parisian brand’s famous heritage. His designs stood confidently in contrast with the high-drama creations storming the catwalks in the late ’90s courtesy of Tom Ford at Gucci, John Galliano at Christian Dior and Alexander McQueen at Givenchy.

Today, Margiela’s design signatures (that he honed until relinquishing control of the brand in 2009) still challenge conventions of luxury and beauty and have paved the way for other fashion disruptors: two of the industry’s most influential creatives working right now – Raf Simons and Demna Gvasalia – have named Margiela as an inspiration.

From March 22nd, the Palais Galliera in Paris will host a retrospective on 20 years of the house, and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs celebrates the years Margiela spent at Hermès. Both shows present iconic looks that continue to ignite the creativity of designers keen to challenge the system, and the exhibitions are endorsed by Margiela himself, providing unprecedented insight into a person who has always been protective of his anonymity, and who scarcely agrees to interviews. We’ll keep trying, though.

Margiela: les années Hermès, from March 22 to September 2, 2018, Musée des Arts Décoratifs

Margiela/Galliera, 1989-2009, from March 3 to July 15, 2018, Palais Galliera

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