The Delight Of Discovering New Designers
Lesser-known, but not for long – an exciting cohort of emerging female-led brands are making themselves known via beautifully crafted collections. Last night in London, NET-A-PORTER celebrated our brilliant New Brands to Know, including Veronica de Piante, BETTTER, SASUPHI and Salon 1884. Here, LAURA JORDAN introduces the brand founders, and shares the wear-forever pieces to add to your wishlist
“Who’s that by?” There is no more thrilling answer to that question than to impart the name of an emerging brand or designer. Sure, because who doesn’t love to be first; the fashion trailblazer of your circle? But also because the buzz of passing on a name-to-know, of sharing the good kind of secret, might just be even better than the compliment itself.
But the reasons to champion breaking brands far surpass bragging rights and reducing the likelihood of seeing someone else in the same piece as you. To invest in the work of a new designer is to actively support small, usually independent business, culturally as well as financially. Another win? Well, it’s all about keeping fashion fresh. Discovering the work of a lesser-known name is about unearthing a different perspective, an alternative interpretation of taste. How refreshing! For the industry to keep evolving, there must always be space made for other voices to be heard.
When thinking of what the work of a ‘new designer’ looks like, however, chances are you might think outlandish, outré, delightfully whimsical and a little bit loopy; understandable – up-and-coming talent has always been fearless when it comes to pushing boundaries (and we love them for that). But that’s far from the whole story. Indeed, a host of labels beginning to break through are built on the foundations of pragmatic luxury, unshowy elegance and off-kilter classicism via the kind of pieces that instantly earn a place in a forever closet, and will inevitably invite the question, ‘Who’s that by?’ Here are four of the most satisfying answers you could give now…
VERONICA DE PIANTE
“My look is timeless and effortless, while maintaining the flexibility to dress yourself up or down,” says designer Veronica de Piante. Proud to dress women of all ages (her own daughters borrow her pieces), de Piante describes her luxurious, Italian-made designs as reflecting her inspirations and aspirations. “I specialize predominantly in tailoring with very clean lines, leather pieces that I would like to wear every day, and elevated knitwear”. Her designs evoke a look-closer curiosity; like the lean, wear-forever ‘Kate’ coat in waxy ‘Mix Oil’ leather; a precisely executed wool twill vest, or the perfect black pants. Think of them as pieces that will instantly make you feel like your best-dressed, most grown-up self. As de Piante explains: “It speaks to the younger generation who like to mix it up with their own sense of style. It speaks to the woman who wants to hold onto her individuality. It speaks to the woman who loves to wrap herself up in a luxurious fabric, be it a sharp blazer or a comfortable coat.”
BETTTER
Stylist, tastemaker and former Vogue Ukraine fashion director, the impeccable Julie Pelipas knows great clothes. In 2021, she translated her expert eye into a trailblazing upcycling program, transforming deadstock suiting into modern, twisted tailoring for the empowered woman.
“I feel [it] is a mission of our platform to educate on what is upcycling, what is truly sustainable product these days, what is the ethos of a modern product that women actually choose to live in and choose as an investment,” says Pelipas. And she has doubled down on her mission as she’s gradually expanded the BETTTER universe (each piece even comes with a care passport that traces the fabric’s origins). BETTTER’s language is about reconsidering wardrobe classics with surprising accents and details. So, a pair of dark denim jeans become a sculptural proposition courtesy of fold-over panels at the front, while an apparently simple blue shirt reveals a gathered and cropped back.
Reflecting on her earlier years, trying to establish her brand, Pelipas says the one piece of advice she would impart to her younger self is to truly believe in herself: “Hesitations have nothing to do with your true talents, and I believe that not giving up is the biggest skill I’ve ever developed.”
SASUPHI
A gently structured cotton twill trench, a contoured knit, expertly tailored flannel suiting: SASUPHI’s pieces are emblematic of co-founders Sara Ferrero and Susanna Cucco’s desire to “embrace style as a tool to express individuality without fashion dependency”. (The name is an amalgamation of letters from the founders’ names, and is pronounced ‘ça suffit’, the French expression for needing no more). “SASUPHI stands for an effortlessly chic way of dressing down what is dressed-up and vice versa. The key is to achieve a balanced and curated look that does not appear contrived,” explains Ferrero. “Our minimalistic approach to wardrobing allows for easy mixing and matching while always maintaining a polished look.” Created “by women for women”, there is an innate appreciation for clothes with ease – and it resonates. “Word of mouth plays a crucial role in the growth of an emerging or independent brand,” says Ferrero. “To build a loyal customer base, it’s about creating a genuine community of like-minded women who connect with our values and vision.”
SALON 1884
It was in Paris in 1884 that John Singer Sargent unveiled one of his most famous (and controversial) paintings: Portrait of Madame X. It is that moment that gave the New York-based artist and designer Andrea Mary Marshall the moniker for her own brand: Salon 1884. “I have an artful approach to design that combines traditional draping and tailoring techniques with luxurious materials and sustainable resources,” she says. “The Salon 1884 woman loves art and fashion, she is cultured, [she] pays attention to what’s happening in the world. Most importantly, she has her own style and thinks and dresses for herself.” Like Sargent’s painting, Marshall’s aesthetic is strong yet sensual, and more than capable of causing a stir. Note, for instance, the slick, double-breasted trench in buttery leather, the super-fluid wool top, or a knotted and draped black wool-jersey dress (like something a modern Madame X might wear). With her dedication to more responsible production and materials, Marshall makes a compelling addition to the pantheon of female designers creating quietly confident clothes for equally self-assured women. And how essential is word-of-mouth to the success of an emerging brand? “Very! Just as important as a good fit,” she says.