How To Plan A Dream Sicilian Vacation, According To Insiders

To enjoy the best scenery in Sicily, the square in the town of Milo is “a privileged place of observation,” says Guido Coffa, owner of boutique hotel Monaci delle Terre Nere. “From here, it is possible to admire almost all of eastern Sicily’s main localities – Syracuse, Augusta, Catania, Acireale, Giardini Naxos and Taormina – and catch a glimpse of the Ionian Sea, too, of course. When the weather is clear, you can even see the coast of Calabria [on the mainland].”

Coffa’s favorite place to sit and enjoy a Sicilian sunrise is the hotel’s orange sun terrace. “It’s a spot that enraptures any person who gets to experience this extraordinary scene,” he enthuses. “The sun rises, shining its first rays, and offers a moment of great emotion. A few seconds later and everything is tinged with orange. The terrace releases all the energy of this gorgeous corner of Sicilian paradise.”

For Lorenzo Maraviglia, general manager at the iconic San Domenico Palace (a Four Seasons Hotel), which provided the setting for White Lotus season two, the most scenic spots are the spectacular white cliffs of Scala dei Turchi in Agrigento, and the outlook towards Naxos Bay and Mount Etna from Hotel Villa Belvedere in Taormina. The panoramas from the archaeological site of Selinunte, “where ancient temples, vineyards, fields of wild flowers and the sea combine to glorious effect,” are the most-loved views for Rossella Beaugié, co-founder of luxurious villa collection The Thinking Traveller. “It’s a vista that takes me back in time and gives me a sense of peace and tranquility.”

“Drive between the towns of Zafferana Etnea and Randazzo, enjoying Mount Etna on the way,” recommends Coffa. “The Etna region is a fertile and rich area and, from an ecological point of view, it knows how to be generous with gifts for those who cultivate it. So you will discover the same beauty and richness in the local produce as you do in the architecture of the Piedmont villages. Staying here should be a slow and exciting journey in which to rediscover the value of time and the flavors of the past.” For Beaugié, the most utterly unforgettable journey would be “a helicopter flight over Mount Etna [incidentally, Europe’s highest active volcano] and the Nebrodi Mountains to Salina in the Aeolian Islands for a swim and some lunch.”

Granita, a crushed-iced snack, is the culinary showstopper in Sicily – “a true work of art [made by] a tradition that pastry masters hand down over time,” says Coffa. “Eastern Sicily is very famous for its delicious granitas. Along the route that leads you to Etna, in Zafferana Etnea, is where you will find the best granita. Almond and pistachio are the flavors not to be missed. Fragrant and sweet-smelling brioches are the perfect accompaniment.”

Almond is such a local favorite that Maraviglia recommends trying almond wine in Castelmola, an ancient village close to Taormina. “I can also recommend a pizzeria called Ciccino’s,” he says. “Good pizza, in a super-simple setting, with a charming owner who sings traditional Sicilian songs out of the blue.”

Beaugié shares that the specialities in Sicily are seasonal. In the summer, it’s all about the granita and gelo di melone, “a light, wobbly, curvaceous watermelon jelly flavored with cinnamon and topped with jasmine blossom”. For the fall and spring, she recommends Sicilian ricotta cheese. “It’s used in both sweet [think cannoli, cassata and warm breakfast cassatelle pastries] and savoury dishes [stirred into pasta sauces, stuffed into deep-fried zucchini flowers with anchovies],” she says. “There’s nothing quite like a slice of Sicilian bread topped with freshly made ricotta and a dribble of extra-virgin olive oil.”

Beaugié recommends indulging at the Rocca delle Tre Contrade: “Start the day with a jog around the estate, swim in its 30m-long heated pool with views of the sea and Etna, play a set or two of tennis surrounded by lemon groves, book a fitness instructor or a massage to have in the spa area, and finish off with a relaxing sauna. After all that, when it’s time for lunch or dinner, the resident cook will spoil you with delicious meals, using organic fruits and vegetables that are grown on the estate.”

“The corner of paradise at the foot of Mount Etna is a place where wellness is at the heart of hospitality,” says Coffa, who agrees that food is key to the local wellness offering. “At Monaci delle Terre Nere, we serve a menu inspired by the Slow Food movement. Respect for nature, biodiversity and care for the planet are the basis of life at Monaci – a place for the soul for many of our guests.”

“Culture surrounds us everywhere in Sicily,” says Coffa. “A visit to Randazzo is not to be missed. It has medieval origins, but the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Jews, Arabs, Normans and Aragonese have all left traces of artistic value. The ancient walls attest to the fact that there was a center of habitation here since Roman times in Sicily.”

The many different cultural roots add to Sicily’s rich historic offering. Visits to the island of Ortigia, diminutive in size and home to many historical landmarks, the Greek temples in Agrigento and the Ancient Greek theater in Taormina are recommended by Maraviglia.

“I love the coastal Zingaro Nature Reserve in northwest Sicily: there are some wonderful walking tracks for spring and fall; in the summer, the reserve’s pebbly coves and translucent waters are irresistible for those who love to swim in the sea,” says Beaugié. “An added bonus is the nearby village of Scopello, which is full of character and great places to eat, from cafés to seafood trattorie.”

“In Sicily, it’s possible to go skiing and swim in the sea on the same day, especially in early spring,” she continues. “Huw, my husband, loves skiing on Mount Etna – and, when he’s finished, he’ll come down to join me for a swim off the beach at Mazzarò.”

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