The Fashion Memo

FW25’s Key Trends And How To Wear Them Now

L-R: Chloé, Ferragamo, Alaïa, Tom Ford

For the FW25 season, a new mood takes center stage – one of effortless sophistication and sensuality. Discover the key runway looks shaping the season, from power dressing with a twist to bold and brilliant color

Words Gillian BrettFashion editor Viktorija Tomasevic
Fashion

Much change is afoot in the fashion world right now. In what has euphemistically been referred to as fashion’s ‘musical chairs’, February saw Gucci’s creative director Sabato De Sarno depart after a two-year tenure, with Demna Gvasalia set to take the reins as artistic director in early July after he leaves Balenciaga. Meanwhile, partners in life and design Luke and Lucie Meier announced they were leaving Jil Sander following seven years at the helm, right after their final show on February 26; Bally’s Simone Bellotti has since been announced to take their place. And Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy was snapped up by Chanel last December, while Carven’s Louise Trotter was ushered in to take his place. After a creatively transformative 11-year run at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson announced his departure from the Spanish house via Instagram on March 17. Filling his shoes, effective April 7, are Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who exited Proenza Schouler,(https://www.net-a-porter.com/shop/designer/proenza-schouler "https://www.net-a-porter.com/shop/designer/proenza-schouler") the brand they co-founded 23 years ago, back in January. And finally, in a historic move, Dario Vitale joins Versace as creative director, with his upcoming debut collection to be the first in house’s 47-year history not creatively overseen by either Gianni or Donatella Versace (who will move into the role of chief brand ambassador). Feeling confused yet? Or simply wondering what this all means for your wardrobe?

Newness. A new creative director brings fresh eyes and their own aesthetic identity to a brand. This year, a total of 10 head designers will make their debuts at major luxury brands, and for FW25, that included Sarah Burton’s (ex-McQueen) first collection for Givenchy, Haider Ackermann’s much-lauded outing at Tom Ford, and Julian Klausner stepping into Dries Van Noten’s storied shoes. “I hope I seduced you all,” was Ackermann’s suave greeting to journalists backstage after showing a leather-heavy collection that perfectly espoused his masterful drapery with Tom Ford’s consummate sexiness. Burton was also in a sensual mood with sheer dresses and sculptural tailoring, while Klausner confidently infused his vision into pieces that will still appeal to diehard Dries fans.

In a season of so much change, common threads still unfurled in the shape of luxe lingerie details, leather everything and chic workwear informed by ’80s power dressing but in sleeker fits. Read on to discover what to expect for next season, plus the pieces to wear now to stay ahead of the curve.

In order of appearance: Saint Laurent, Alaïa, Dries Van Noten
L-R: Gucci, Tom Ford, Gabriela Hearst

Each season comes with its own dominant color trend, but this time around designers focused on unexpected pops of color, unique combinations, and striking columns of color – take Gucci’s lilac and lemon pairing or Dries van Noten’s neck-to-ankle indigo. Closing out Paris Fashion Week, Anthony Vaccarello went full throttle at Saint Laurent with fuchsia, emerald, coral, scarlet and more, worn together or styled with leopard print. Designers are betting big on a bright fall for 2025. Be inspired to style Stella McCartney’s powder-blue midi dress with lipstick-red strappy sandals for your next event.

L-R: Victoria Beckham, Tom Ford, McQueen

From New York to London, and Milan to Paris, designers got the memo that whether it’s a dress, a skirt, a shirt or a pair of pants, it will look infinitely cooler, not to mention more luxurious, in leather. Both Valentino Garavani’s Alessandro Michele and Khaite’s Catherine Holstein referenced the late visionary director David Lynch, who passed away in January and was renowned for his dark and surreal oeuvre. In Holstein’s hands, Lynch’s influence played out as a moody, leather-laden collection, brimming with New York verve, which Khaite fans will be scrambling for come September. In the meantime, Loewe’s gathered leather jacket is an ideal trans-seasonal number with T-shirts, jeans and slip dresses alike.

In order of appearance: Chloé, Khaite, Saint Laurent
In order of appearance: Valentino Garavani, Altuzarra
L-R: Khaite, Chloé, Jil Sander

TikTok’s #mobwife quickly became very demure and mindful in 2024, yet her vivacious approach to getting dressed can still be felt in the infallible leopard-print trend (which straddles both neutral and statement territory) and the ubiquity of fuzzy faux fur, whether as grand and cocooning coats at Valentino Garavani or tactile accents on dresses at Jil Sander and bags at Chloé. Invest in Valentino Garavani’s leopard-print, vintage-inspired jacket now and you’ll thank yourself for seasons to come.

L-R: Gucci, Valentino Garavani, Calvin Klein Collection

Another designer making her debut this season was Calvin Klein Collection’s Veronica Leoni. While her name may not (yet) ring any bells, with a resume that includes Jil Sander, The Row and Phoebe Philo’s Céline, Leoni is an exciting outlier, and one who proved she’s more than capable of bringing buzz back to the brand after its six-year hiatus from the New York schedule. Long and lean, fluid and sensual – her tailoring takes its cues from ’80s power dressing but with a softer, more modern finish. Victoria Beckham similarly played with silhouette by tightening and lengthening her pantsuits – some to the point that they engulfed the shoes. For now, Faithfull’s chic single-breasted blazer has exactly the kind of hourglass silhouette this look centers on. Wear it with tailored shorts now and narrow wool pants come fall.

In order of appearance: Calvin Klein Collection, Victoria Beckham, Stella McCartney, Ferragamo, Saint Laurent
In order of appearance: Burberry, Khaite
L-R: TWP, Missoni, Altuzarra

In fashion’s ongoing flirtation with all things aristocratic (see quiet luxury, the preppy trend, tenniscore, field jackets), it seems a natural next step for equine influences to emerge. Whether or not you’ve set foot inside a stable, you can now look the part in polished riding boots, jodhpurs and country-chic checks and knitwear, courtesy of Altuzarra, Burberry, Loewe and The Row. Slip JW Anderson’s Fair Isle cardigan on with B Sides’ barrel-leg jeans as a subtle nod to the look now.

L-R: Chloé, Valentino Garavani, Jil Sander

Everybody wants to be a Chloé girl right now. And it’s easy to see why – FW25’s slinky night-dresses-as-slip-dresses, styled with ballet flats, hippie-ish gold chains and the re-issued ‘Paddington’ bag make Parisian Left Bank cool accessible to non-residents, too. It helps that creative director Chemena Kamali embodies exactly the kind of sartorial je ne sais quoi we all aspire to. Kamali spear-headed the return of boho, and its laid-back insouciance, feminine flou and carefree spirit have become more appealing than ever. Elsewhere, boudoir details were more literal, from Valentino Garavani’s lace bodysuits to Gucci’s bralets. Embrace the look on balmy evenings in the summer months with Saint Laurent’s pretty pink and purple, lace-trimmed tank top tucked into wide-leg pants.

In order of appearance: Ferragamo, Gucci, Saint Laurent
Burberry
L-R: TWP, Burberry, Tory Burch

While Jonathan Anderson opted for a Loewe presentation in lieu of a runway this year, his knockout over-the-knee boots are sure to make regular appearances on your Instagram feed this fall. Their exaggerated proportions sit somewhere between a riding boot and a wader, so if you’re after something sleeker, look to Burberry, where a Saltburn-inspired show (Richard E. Grant even walked runway to bring this theme to life) presented polished riding boots in black, green and burgundy, pulled up over jodhpurs, and styled with leather bikers or fringed shearling bombers. Given the classic nature of this silhouette, it’s one you can easily tap into now – Saint Laurent’s buckle-embellished knee-boots are a sophisticated style that will take you effortlessly from the office to date night.

L-R: Chloé, Valentino Garavani, Isabel Marant

Again, we have Chloé’s Chemena Kamali to thank for the return of beautiful, boho-leaning bags. Her revival of 2005’s Philo-era ‘Paddington’ bag marks it’s welcome return from the archives, whether you wore it 20 years ago or are investing in one for the first time. Isabel Marant, too, has long flown the flag for effortless, Parisian style and her pretty saddle bags perfectly embody this bohemian spirit. Look out for suede finishes, fringing and studs – oh, and add bag charms liberally.

In order of appearance: Altuzarra, Gabriela Hearst

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