Culture

Inside The V&A’s Spectacular Diva Exhibition

L-R: ‘divas’ Rihanna, Cher and Billie Eilish

DIVA, a majestic exploration of the world’s most iconic performers, is now on at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, supported by NET-A-PORTER. Here, curator KATE BAILEY gives KATIE BERRINGTON an inside look at the exhibition highlights, and talks about reclaiming the meaning of the word ‘diva’, the importance of these artists’ visionary image and style, and the boundary-breaking, culture-defining impact of their lives and work

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DIVA shines a light on some of history’s most prominent artists – and the designers who have dressed them – including dazzling costumes for Cher, Tina Turner, and Rihanna’s iconic 2018 Met Gala Pope outfit

“The divas included in the show, each one is a trailblazer,” says curator Kate Bailey of the legendary performers whose power and creativity are celebrated in the Victoria and Albert Museum’s major exhibition opening of the year, DIVA. Spanning two centuries across three acts, the lineup brings together Marilyn Monroe and Maria Callas, Shirley Bassey and Billie Eilish, Cher and Rihanna, and Tina Turner and Elton John in an extraordinary exploration of what it means to be a diva. “Seeing them all together is like the most amazing party,” says Bailey.

A reckoning with and reclaiming of the term starts by revisiting its roots. “[We had to] think about this word, ‘diva’, which is so omnipresent, and how and why it became negative when it started as a statement of creative power,” Bailey explains. She traces its Latin origins and reveals how ‘diva’ was once used to describe great, early opera singers. “Then, [over] the course of the 19th century, as opera travels – and [these singers’] image and status travels – so does the term,” says Bailey. “You start to see the negative [connotations] creeping in, where diva behavior is often described.”

Act One gives the historical landscape, taking the audience from the 1830s to the 1960s, examining social and political movements, and how these eminent figures both drove them and were impacted by them, the significant influence they had during their own era and on the present day. “We move through the 19th century, and we start to see the first waves of feminism and the way the term changes within this sociopolitical context.” Bailey cites the early opera star Adelina Patti: “She had her own driver, she could commission the same couture dresses that royalty wore, and she commissioned her own portraits. But she didn’t have the vote.”

Act Two brings the concept of the diva into today, applauding “extraordinary, exceptionally talented artists who are creating work in 360 [degrees], at the top of a hierarchical structure – and [who are] divinely worshipped for it,” Bailey reveals. It also examines the cult of celebrity, and the struggle between public and private. Evident through both acts is the barrier-breaking, zeitgeist-shaping nature of the diva: “This sense of empowerment, this sense [that] they can use that arena, their voice and their platform to make a difference.

“Right back to the 19th century, these professions enabled a certain amount of freedom, ahead of a lot of women in society,” Bailey continues. “There were the actresses [who] had a franchise league campaigning for women’s suffrage. The likes of Ellen Terry and Sarah Bernhardt [in the Victorian era] were driving things forward for women. Isadora Duncan had her dance school, where she wanted to empower women through the expression of their bodies. In the silent-movie world, Mary Pickford was setting up an independent production company. And Josephine Baker’s work with the French Resistance, and then her championing of the civil rights movement, which I found she was doing in the ’50s, even before the rallies of the ’60s; she was there, speaking with Martin Luther King. Dolly Parton and Barbra Streisand [representing change for women] in the ’60s. And these days, whether it’s Lady Gaga championing LGBTQIA rights or Elton John with his Foundation, each of them takes on that position of power and responsibility.” Raising up divas as forces for change across their eras and beyond, the exhibition charts the ways these individuals have driven progress for sexual liberation, equal rights for gender, race and sexuality, and challenged industry and societal norms.

Being able to follow the voice was crucial, so [visitors] have these rather elegant headphones that are triggered as they walk through [the exhibition]. They will look at that costume and hear that voice and that song
Rihanna has loaned the V&A five looks, including this enveloping all-black Balenciaga ensemble, which she wore to the Met Gala in 2019

Image is integral to the definition of diva, too, from the ability to set trends to the determination to push boundaries. The fashion showcased includes iconic costumes from stage and screen, and some of the most famous red-carpet ensembles of all time. “Fashion can be theatrical. It can be performative. People look to the diva as the vision: ‘What’s that artist going to do next?’,” Bailey says. “There’s an enterprising nature to the diva, [with] a sense of being acutely aware of how important your image is, and how important it is to reinvent.” The exhibition looks at the classic “diva tropes… feathers and sequins and exaggeration. And then how that links with RuPaul and drag, with the flamboyance and spectacle of fashion.” It also celebrates the carving out of distinctive, powerhouse styles – looking to the pioneering likes of Grace Jones, Prince, Lady Gaga and Madonna – in a commitment to self-expression and of embracing their originality.

One of the curator’s favorite pieces in the exhibition is a fragment of the dress worn by Theda Bara in the lost movie of Cleopatra from 1917, which has never gone on display before. “It’s like an elongated bra, and it’s so fragile but also powerful… The film is lost, but the fragment of this dress survives.” There are dresses worn by Mae West, Marilyn Monroe and Vivien Leigh in early Hollywood movies, too. “Knowing that they’ve been inhabited by these great performers is a magical thing,” says Bailey. The garments sit alongside portraits and scripts, with some of the actors’ most-quoted scenes (think West’s “When I’m good, I’m very good, but when I’m bad, I’m better”) playing out on video screens.

“Equally magical” are the dazzling stage costumes donned by artists such as Ella Fitzgerald, Cher and Tina Turner. Bob Mackie’s visionary, high-octane designs for the latter two are particular highlights – including Turner’s ‘Flame’ dress and Cher’s iridescent two-piece from the 1975 Rock Music Awards, which take center stage. But, when it comes to putting the pieces on display, the key is to let them all sing, says Bailey.

“I’ve had to be mindful of the fact that there’s so much majesty in the individual objects, and there’s so much theatricality that comes through the artist,” she says. The result will be an immersive experience. “Being able to follow the voice was crucial, so [visitors] have these rather elegant headphones that are triggered as they walk through [the exhibition]. They will look at that costume and hear that voice and that song. I’m really excited for people to take that journey.” The incredible audio journey, triggered as visitors move between the displays, spans soaring operatic arias, stage monologues, 1920s’ jazz, immortal movie songs, pop hits and power anthems (from Aretha Franklin’s Respect and Diana Ross’s I’m Coming Out to Lizzo’s About Damn Time).

From a contemporary point of view, Rihanna herself has loaned the V&A five standout looks that depict her limit-stretching style evolution, including her most recent Oscars red-carpet ensemble – a black mesh and leather cutout Alaïa outfit – which shows how the artist has redefined maternity fashion. Bailey was also in awe at the arrival of Rihanna’s Maison Margiela Pope ensemble, worn to the 2018 Met Gala. “It’s become such an iconic moment, and it does so many things in terms of playing with gender and roles and hierarchy. There’s something amazing about that piece, and it’s so heavy! It makes you think about what it was like to wear.”

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The show will illuminate the elements that unite these extraordinary artists – the talent, the image and the pursuit of perfection. “You don’t make it in the world [of diva] if you aren’t a hard worker with huge talent and a strong sense of self and vision.” The finale is a charting of cosmic connections. “Act One is the history, Act Two is the thematic, and Act Three brings together the stars. And because [this part of the museum] feels like a planetarium, a network of stars is what we’ve played with,” shares Bailey. In the four alcoves of the mezzanine, an animated projection of constellations plays out on a loop: “For instance, having a cluster of stars that might connect Sarah Bernhardt with Lady Gaga with Vesta Tilley.”

It promises to be a mesmeric reminder of the omnipresent power of the diva. “There is a timelessness to the diva, [even though] they’re very present in their moment, which is what makes them so relevant,” reflects Bailey. “These iconic performers live on through their art, their voice and the legacy they leave behind.”

As a company dedicated to empowering and celebrating Incredible Women, NET-A-PORTER is proud to partner with the V&A in supporting the DIVA exhibition. DIVA is on now until April 7 at the Victoria and Albert Museum, South Kensington, London

Stunning costumes donned by artists such as Cher and Tina Turner appear in Act Two of the exhibition