How to care for your skin when you’re pregnant

Pregnancy is all about change and expecting the unexpected. Pretty obvious, we know, but while you’re navigating and learning to adapt to your new contours, another area that needs adjusting is your skincare regime. Skin can become pretty unpredictable during pregnancy, according to Dr. Dendy Engelman. “During pregnancy, a woman’s body experiences sudden and dramatic changes as a result of an increase in estrogen and progesterone.” Unfortunately, for some, this influx of hormones also brings acne. “Likewise, skin can also become dry and flaky, and hormonal surges are the main culprit for hyperpigmentation.” But what about that infamous pregnancy ‘glow’? “During pregnancy, your body increases the production of blood by 50 percent, so many women claim this increased blood flow brightens the complexion,” explains Engelman.

‘Glow’ aside, how should you go about tackling the unpredictable and unwarranted side-effects that pregnancy can have on your skin? “Most science-backed, made-in-the-lab skincare can deliver great results and be perfectly safe to use in pregnancy,” Dr. Engelman continues. “But there are a few key skincare ingredients that have been seen to directly affect the health of the unborn child, so it is best to steer clear of them. Ingredients such as formaldehyde [found in nail polish, lash glue and hair-straightening treatments] have been linked to developmental problems for the baby. Equally, aluminum chloride hexahydrate, used in many deodorants, diethanolamine [DEA], found in hair and bodycare, and dihydroxyacetone [DHA], found in self-tanning products, can also have a negative impact – for example, low birth weights, heart disease and diabetes.”

Whether bought over the counter, prescribed or ‘off the rack’, all forms of retinol and retinoic acid should be avoided when trying for a baby, during pregnancy and throughout nursing. “As a vitamin-A derivative [found in anti-acne drugs], isotretinoin is a known teratogen, meaning it has been proven to cause birth defects,” says Dr. Engelman. For this very reason, it is highly regulated and patients on this medication are required to have monthly pregnancy tests and be on two forms of birth control to ensure they aren’t pregnant. Because of the known dangers of Accutane (the oral medication for acne), all vitamin-A derivatives are deemed unsafe during pregnancy.

However, don’t automatically reach for your nearest vegan face oil, either. “Many pregnant women think that if it’s ‘natural’, it’s OK to be used during pregnancy. However, essential oils have been known to cause uterine contractions, which could cause miscarriage or early birth,” clarifies Dr. Engelman.

So, what can you use? Swap your favorite retinoid for an antioxidant, such as vitamin C. Switch your chemical sunscreen for a physical one (oxybenzone, found in most chemical sunscreens, is not just bad for the oceans but bad for your baby, too), and witch hazel makes for a great cleanser instead of an exfoliating one that contains salicylic acid – another ingredient to use cautiously.

Also, when it comes to pregnancy hyperpigmentation, a particular issue for women of color, Dr. Engelman recommends treating skin to an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), such as mandelic, lactic or glycolic, which are all safe to use during pregnancy. As for the flakiness, a safe exfoliating acid will gently slough dead skin away, so don’t just load up on moisturiser.

“When I was pregnant, I would often wash with a gentle cleanser and then use glycolic exfoliating pads three times a week,” concludes Dr. Engelman. “But I always encourage my patients to ask me or their healthcare provider any questions they have regarding skincare or treatments prior to using them, in order to keep their baby and themselves safe.”