Designer Elie Saab on heritage, hardships and his exclusive new collection
As his namesake label relaunches on NET-A-PORTER, designer ELIE SAAB opens up about his unrelenting rise – even in the face of adversity. By ALEXANDRA VENISON
For many women, dressing for a special event is a rite of passage. Anyone who has found the perfect gown knows it’s a magical feeling like no other. And it’s one Elie Saab can be thanked for on countless occasions. Even in the face of a pandemic and the tragic Beirut port explosion last year, the Lebanese designer remains positive.
Lebanon’s current affairs are challenging. Last summer, these challenges were escalated by the capital’s port blast on August 4. “Our headquarters and workshops were heavily damaged – and seeing Beirut and the Lebanese witnessing such tragedy was heartbreaking,” says the 57-year-old designer. With commitments and deadlines to meet, it took just two weeks for the atelier to be rebuilt and up and running again. “We had no other choice but to stand back up and move forward – for us, for our employees and for our community,” he says.
“I had a longing to see Beirut triumph again and a determination to bring back its pulse. This collection is from Beirut and for Beirut
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With the world’s lenses pointed towards the city, Saab wanted to inspire a new narrative – one that didn’t focus on destruction but instead the enduring Lebanese spirit. “I decided to pay homage to Beirut, in all its majesty,” he explains. A sartorial love letter, The Sacred Source collection highlights Saab’s signature touches. “Through this exclusive collection, I wanted to reflect a common sentiment we had at the time; a call for a return to the source and for the renewal of energies.” At first glance, the designs are ethereal; when worn, the craftsmanship comes to life with fluid lines and flurries of sequins and intricate embellishment.
“I had a longing to see Beirut triumph again and a determination to bring back its pulse. This is a collection from Beirut and for Beirut, in all its complexities and details,” he says. Heritage is an integral part of Elie Saab and its customers. Saab himself takes great pleasure in seeing his designs worn by one generation and passed onto the next. “This communal thread has been going on since I started dressing the grandmother and moving on to the granddaughter,” he muses.
“We have reached a stage that transcends cultural, generational and geographical limitations
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Saab launched his first atelier in 1982, at the age of 18. The industry is almost unrecognizable now, with the developments in digital and social media. “Our diverse global clientele has considerably changed and evolved. Today, we have reached a stage that transcends cultural, generational and geographical limitations,” Saab says, with a nod to his legacy.
But Saab is no stranger to breaking boundaries. He was the first Lebanese designer to dress an Oscar winner – Halle Berry for her best actress award for Monster’s Ball in 2002; the following year, he became the first Arab to be admitted to the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. “NET-A-PORTER is a pioneer in digital retail, and we have always had a special relationship,” he says of the relaunch. Looking to reach his audience further and adapt to their changing needs, it appears nothing will hold Saab back.
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The models featured in this story are not associated with NET-A-PORTER and do not endorse it or the products shown