How To Master FW22’s ‘Modern Elegance’ Trend
Elegance is never far from the style agenda, but this season, it’s a headline moment. GEORGINA LUCAS unpacks the best ways to work the ‘new ladylike’ look into your wardrobe – with 2022 appeal
As signaled by the rising necklines and lengthening hemlines on the FW22 runways, elegance is on the agenda this season. But take note: this is no simple return to the classic looks worn by the screen sirens of the 1950s (surely elegance’s heyday?); this is ladylike dressing for right now. There are all the usual markers – cinched waists, A-line silhouettes and soft knits – but with a fresh update; think futuristic textures, mini skirts and skyscraper heels. Eminently versatile, this trend encompasses multiple others, from all-black to leather everything.
At Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy made a showstopping debut, stepping admirably into the sizeable shoes of predecessor Daniel Lee. His show notes spoke of a woman with ‘places to go’, and the resulting pieces promised drama in her wake – see the lavender, fringed leather A-line midi skirt that put a decidedly contemporary spin on old-world glamour. While Erdem, who has always excelled at contemporary riffs on femininity, delivered elegance with a side of noir. Inspired by iconic women of 1930s Berlin, his collection was imbued with pleasingly dark glamour – look closer at the beautiful, cinched-waist brocade shift and you’ll see the delicately undone raw edges.
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino runway was a tale of two colors. Sandwiched between the hot pink looks that form the backbone of what’s quickly become known as ‘Barbiecore’ were 33 impeccable black ensembles, the more demure of which were fit for a Hitchcock heroine, then amped up with towering black ankle boots polished to a sparkling shine.
In the wake of the past few years, it’s perhaps unsurprising that designers felt ready to unleash a slew of looks made for dressing up and going out. But far from requiring endless finessing and a black-tie event, the beauty of this contemporary take on elegance is its wearability for work, weekend – wherever. Here’s how…
After dark
Top-to-toe black, leather tailoring, full skirts: Gabriela Hearst’s Chloé delivered all the elements of a pitch-perfect evening wardrobe. At the Uruguayan creative director’s deft hand, the French house’s signature whimsical romance has taken on a sharpness, a purpose, that feels perfect for now. A-line is the skirt silhouette of the season. By night, style it with a pared-back corset, such as Rick Owens’ design, Anine Bing’s black overcoat and classic pointed pumps.
Off-duty
Happily, for your weekend wardrobe, designers have taken the elegance brief and remixed it for day to day. See Khaite’s corset-inspired top: structured via invisible boning, the knitted piece is the perfect partner for jeans and elevated flats, such as Totême’s classic slingbacks. It will segue neatly into smarter occasions, too, with wide-leg pants or FW22’s ubiquitous A-line skirt. Melissa Kaye’s diamond-studded gold hoops are a chic finishing touch, whatever the occasion.
Workwear
Crisp tailoring is a workwear staple. This season, seek out sculptural curves and soft-as-butter fabrics to lend your suiting a feminine feel; it’s a mood that Jil Sander has perfected. The house’s double-breasted long-line blazer is a true investment; pair it with Simone Rocha’s mini and Khaite’s kitten heels – the ultimate in elegant footwear.
Accessories
A sprinkling of modern elegance is easy to achieve via carefully chosen accessories. This season, Mary Jane pumps run the gamut of heel heights – from towering platforms at Versace to By Far’s modest midi heel. In terms of jewelry, pearls have always signaled discerning taste, and brands from Mizuki to Storrow have taken the timeless pearl and added a sprinkling of contemporary style. Last but by no means least, everyone from Balenciaga to The Row has created a version of the top-handle bag this season – beloved of true icons of elegance such as Grace Kelly, Jackie Onassis and, of course, Queen Elizabeth II.
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The models featured in this story are not associated with NET-A-PORTER and do not endorse it or the products shown