The Ultimate Guide to Buying Fine Jewelry Responsibly
Precious metals and gems are an investment purchase that deserve serious consideration. Here, CHARLIE BOYD speaks to four industry insiders for their expertise on how to shop more mindfully for fine jewelry
Choose pieces made with 100% recycled metals
“For me, sustainability isn’t just an option, it’s a necessity,” says Sophie Howard, founder of By Pariah. “It is woven into every aspect of our brand – we create jewelry that not only looks good, but also feels good to wear, knowing it’s made with consideration,” she explains. By Pariah’s pieces are crafted from 100% recycled gold and sterling silver, and she consciously considers the overall impact of manufacturing, too. “I’m proud to say that our production recycles nearly 80% of its industrial water usage back into the manufacturing processes. Low-power LED lighting is used throughout the facility, industrial wastewater is PH-treated for sedimentation before release, and casting fumes are filtered before release.”
Be conscious of the provenance of precious gemstones
“I make it my mission to personally know each of our gemstone suppliers,” says Octavia Zamagias, founder of Los Angeles-based brand Octavia Elizabeth. “All our suppliers abide by the standards outlined in the SCS Global Services ‘Standard for Gemstones’, and many are part of the Responsible Jewellery Council,” she explains. “We don’t source any gemstones from areas of conflict [as per the Kimberley Process System of Warranties], and we ask that each of our gemstone suppliers signs a code of conduct to ensure they are operating with integrity and fair trade in mind,” she adds. “I love that by sourcing responsibly, we are encouraging economic growth in small communities, as well as ushering in new generations to the artisanal world of jewelry-making.”
Find out if a brand’s packaging is made from recyclable materials
“From the beginning, we have always been driven by a desire to flout convention and create a new visual language without compromising our own value system and ethical commitments,” says Anna Jewsbury, artistic director at Completedworks. “This includes a consideration for materials – not just the materials we produce our jewelry from, but also the packaging they’re presented in,” she explains. Completedworks’ presentation boxes are made using recycled paper and card that is FSC-certified, which enables businesses to choose paper sourced solely from positive forestry practices. “Producing from recycled paper versus virgin paper reduces greenhouse-gas emissions, uses less energy, less water, and produces less solid waste,” says Jewsbury. “Our soft jewelry pouches are also made from a mix of cotton and ramie – a strong natural fiber derived from nettles that is biodegradable.”
Choose locally-made pieces
“Jia Jia is a fine jewelry and crystal-specimen brand created for all the lovers of our planet,” says founder Jia-Jia Zhu, who grew up between Shanghai and California. After many years working as a jewelry buyer in the luxury fashion industry, Zhu sought to launch her own brand inspired by the beauty of the earth, featuring crystals in their raw uncut form. Zhu ensures that each of her pieces is manufactured in New York, San Francisco, and Los Angeles, supporting local artisanal talent.