The designers redefining Danish style
If you think Danish style is rooted in minimalism, think again – these homegrown designers are known for their use of color, playful proportions and irreverent approach to styling. Ahead of Copenhagen Fashion Week on January 28, get to know the female-led labels redefining ‘Scandi’ chic…
DITTE REFFSTRUP OF GANNI
Since taking the reins of Danish knitwear brand Ganni back in 2009, Reffstrup and her husband Nicolaj, who serve as creative director and chief executive respectively, have turned the lesser-known label into a global powerhouse, beloved for its eccentric aesthetic
“Copenhagen is and always will be integral to Ganni; it’s where my heart is – I get so much of my inspiration from the city and the people. When I joined Ganni, there were two major stereotypes about Scandinavian fashion: that it was either bohemian, or minimal and androgynous. We set out to create our own version, ‘Scandi 2.0’, which is all about being confident and carefree. Being a Ganni girl is about using your personal style as a means of self-expression, but without overthinking it; just going with your gut and having fun. I still get such a buzz when I see women wearing Ganni, whether it’s someone on the street in Copenhagen or celebrities like Rihanna and Beyoncé. Every collection I design is personal – it was because I couldn’t find a label that represented what I wanted to wear that I started in the first place – but SS20 marked my tenth year at the brand, so it was really special. Danish pop star MØ did a surprise performance at the fashion show – the heavens opened and it turned into a dance party in the rain.”
SOPHIE BILLE BRAHE
Since launching her eponymous label nine years ago, fine-jewelry designer Sophie Bille Brahe has redefined the category with her playful yet precious designs, inspired by everything from the cosmos to Japanese mythology and Ancient Egypt
“It has never been my intention to design jewelry with a Scandinavian aesthetic, but it’s my heritage and so it naturally influences my work. My 16th-century ancestor Tycho Brahe was an astronomer who discovered the constellation Cassiopeia. Through learning more about him I developed my own fascination with the sky; in Denmark, it has a very specific color palette, with special tones of blue and gray, unlike anywhere else in the world. These crisp shades are a huge influence on my work – they lend it a kind of stark simplicity. I’ve loved working with my hands since I was a little girl and, to me, being a jewelry designer is the perfect combination of fashion, craft and art. I’m inspired by the things I love – it can be anything from a piece of art to the ocean. For SS20, I wanted to pay homage to Venice, a place that means a great deal to me. I love the Venezia freshwater pearl earrings, which are shaped like lemons – they remind me of hot Italian summers. I’ve also introduced Murano glass into my collections and we’re working with some of the last remaining glass blowers in the region. I love seeing different women style my pieces. I want it to be a part of their everyday life and make them feel comfortable, confident and elegant. I believe jewelry is something that should be worn and used every day, not just on special occasions; I love to pair a casual tee with diamond earrings or a pearl necklace.”
ROTATE BIRGER CHRISTENSEN
Best friends, former colleagues and now co-designers Thora Valdimars and Jeanette Friis Madsen launched their own label, Rotate, in 2018. In the short time since, their effortless yet extrovert designs have become a firm favorite with the global street-style set
“We take the fact that we are women, designing for women, very seriously. Like everyone else, we have days when we just feel like blending in, and others when we want to be the center of attention. As fashion editors, we’ve been working with clothes and the female body for most of our adult lives; we’re very aware of which silhouettes, hemlines, fabrics and fits are flattering, and we only design pieces we’d be happy to wear ourselves. We left our former jobs and launched Rotate because we were both ready for a change. We didn’t feel professionally fulfilled and we just couldn’t shake this dream of founding our own label. Now, developing the brand together, it feels like we’re finally in the right place. We haven’t trained as designers but that’s actually quite freeing – we make up the rules as we go along. Our inspirations are varied, but lately we’ve been thinking a lot about the glamour of Hollywood’s Golden Age. We wanted to move our aesthetic on, so it felt mature, while still maintaining the playfulness we are known for. To us, ‘Scandi style’ just means that you’re free to express yourself however you want. Scandinavian women are strong and daring – and that’s what we want to communicate through our collections.”
“As fashion editors, we’ve been working with clothes and the female body for most of our adult lives; we’re very aware of which silhouettes, hemlines, fabrics and fits are flattering
”Jeanette Friis Madsen and Thora Valdimars
CECILIE BAHNSEN
As a former LVMH Prize finalist and winner of the DANSK Design Talent Award in 2016, it should come as no surprise that Cecilie Bahnsen’s rise has been meteoric. Since launching her eponymous label just six years ago, the designer – and her ethereal dresses – have secured cult status
“I knew I wanted to be a fashion designer when I was 12 years old. I had just completed an internship at the Danish Design School and was completely mesmerised by the entire experience; no one could talk me out of it after that. My dream was to set up my own label, based in Copenhagen, focused on a more feminine interpretation of Scandinavian style. Denmark is known for timeless architecture, furniture and craftsmanship – I wanted to create something similar for fashion; pieces that women could wear every day but also hand down to their daughters. My dresses look precious, but they are made to be worn; they leave space for the wearer’s identity and personality to shine through. I love the idea of throwing on a floral ball gown with a simple pair of sneakers. My inspiration doesn’t change every season; since day one I have had a strong vision of what I want the brand to be. For me, it’s more important to build a community and a universe around the label, so with each collection I am trying to make that even stronger. Before I founded my label, I worked with John Galliano in Paris, and I think that’s where my love of romance comes from – he taught me that you can always make something a bit better, take it even further. Holding my first show at Copenhagen Fashion Week, watching the models walk the runway in my clothes, was truly unbelievable. It taught me that, if you push yourself, anything is possible.”
STINE GOYA
On a mission to dispel the sartorial stereotype that Danish style is all about simplicity, model-turned-designer Stine Goya established her genre-defying label in 2006. Goya’s joyful designs and hand-painted prints have been proving people wrong ever since
“Danish style is totally misunderstood; it’s synonymous with minimalism, but it’s more considered than that. Everyone bikes around so, of course, comfort is a priority, but there’s also a playfulness to our approach. I’ve been sewing my own crazy, colorful clothes since I was a little girl, and it’s this idea that fashion can be a means of self-expression that really drives me to dress people. It might sound silly after running my own label for 12 years, but it still makes me so happy and excited to see women wearing my designs – it melts my heart. My collections have been inspired by everything from movies and literature to interiors and artists; all my prints are designed and painted in-house, which I think gives the designs a really personal feel. Sustainability is also becoming an increasingly important focus for the brand, and I’m proud of the steps we’ve made in the last year: all our SS20 show pieces were 100 percent sustainable and we’ve created a beautiful sustainable capsule with NET-A-PORTER. We still have a long way to go, but we’re trying our best to get there. In recent seasons it feels like there has been a lot of love for Danish fashion, with foreign press and buyers taking a real interest in what we’re doing. I think part of that is because Copenhagen is such a welcoming city; visitors become immersed in the food and music scenes, the whole lifestyle.”