Why The Cord Necklace Is A Hero Jewel For FW24
Cord necklaces are the standout accessory for FW24, tying in perfectly with the season’s boho and Y2K aesthetics, says SARAH ROYCE-GREENSILL
On the runway in Milan in February, Tom Ford’s sharp tailoring was accessorized with a piece more usually associated with beachwear and kaftans: a leather cord necklace, which dangled a sculptural gold-plated charm mid-sternum. The juxtaposition proved that there’s no need to pack away our summer jewelry when the nights draw in – cord necklaces have a place in our fall/winter wardrobes, adding softness and a sense of artistry to even the most polished outfits.
“The cord necklace allows you to wear gold in a very casual way. It reminds me of the amulets brought back from travels; the lucky charm that you never take off,” says French jewelry designer Marie Lichtenberg, whose multi-colored, hand-woven cord necklaces have become cult favorites. Inspired by a trip to India, where she became fascinated by the practice of tying hand-woven Mauli threads around one’s wrist as a symbol of protection, her colorful cords are adorned with pearls and strung with engraved gold and enamel lockets that carry secret messages such as ‘Amour Toujours’ or ‘Home is Everywhere You Are’.
There’s something earthy about cord necklaces that lends itself to a sense of spirituality. The ‘Birth of Venus’ necklace by Greek brand The Ysso is a symbol of love and beauty, inspired by the Botticelli painting of the same name. While the shell motif is reminiscent of summer, its supersized proportions make it ideal for layering over chunky fall knitwear. Alighieri’s ‘Link of Wanderlust’ necklace represents human connection and the unspoken bond between founder Rosh Mahtani and her father. Wrapped in supple black Japanese cord, the imperfect hammered-gold finish of the oversized motif lends itself to the bohemian spirit of fall/winter ’24.
Because in case you hadn’t heard, boho is back. Led by Chemena Kamali’s Chloé, the ’70s-style hippy look is big this season – and it’s a vibe that chimes perfectly with the sculptural simplicity of a cord necklace. New York-based brand Agmes collaborated with sculptor Simone Bodmer-Turner on the tactile, curvaceous ‘Gertrude’ charm – inspired by modern art and architecture. Strung on a neutral cord, it can be tied at any length – worn long over a ruffled silk dress, or shortened to gleam beneath a buttery soft leather jacket. With its forest-green cord and organic, satiny gold-leaf motif, Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen’s ‘Leaves’ necklace also taps into the nature-loving spirit of boho 2.0.
“The great thing about cord necklaces is how approachable they can make fine jewelry feel. They can take an otherwise formal or fancy look and ground it
”Jenna Grosfeld, founder of jewelry brand Jenna Blake
While the boho look is all about yellow gold, silver charms on cords tap into another enduring trend: the resurgence of Y2K style. Worn with a silky camisole or slip dress, it’s reminiscent of celebrities on the red carpet in the early 2000s. Silver embodies ’90s minimalism; an era that has always inspired jeweler Anissa Kermiche, whose crystal-adorned ‘Charmeur’ rope necklace is a sophisticated nod to the yin-yang motif that was all the rage during her childhood. Sophie Buhai embraces the ’90s goth trend with her sharp, smooth onyx ‘Crevice’ pendant on a jet-black cord, while Jennifer Behr’s Natica necklace combines braided cord with a polished silver shell pendant for a metallic pop of brilliance against a dark winter wardrobe.
“The great thing about cord necklaces is how approachable they can make fine jewelry feel. They can take an otherwise formal or fancy look and ground it,” says Jenna Grosfeld, the founder of LA-based jewelry brand Jenna Blake. “By mixing in another texture, like leather or silk, you add dimension, personality, and warmth to any look.” She elevates the style with a twisted rope of silk finished with an 18kt gold and diamond clasp, from which hangs her signature solid-gold Mariner Link charm, which can be interchanged with any number of personal talismans. “For me, the goal with all jewelry looks is laid-back elegance, and cords are the perfect vehicle to achieve that aesthetic,” she says.
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