The Vanguard: How Team NET-A-PORTER Style Their Favorite Designs By This Year’s Brands
Diotima and Liberowe are the latest womenswear brands to join our global mentorship program, The Vanguard, for 2024. To mark the moment, two of NET-A-PORTER’s fashion experts reveal what they love about the brands and how they’ll be styling their favorite pieces for the office and beyond
About The Vanguard
NET-A-PORTER and MR PORTER’s global mentorship program helps to support and empower emerging design talent. Liberowe, Diotima (both available at NET-A-PORTER) and Kartik Research (shoppable at MR PORTER) are the latest brands to receive mentoring support and guidance from our team of industry experts. All three were selected not only for their unique creative vision, but for their efforts in implementing more sustainable practices into their design processes, too.
Everything you need to know about Diotima
Founder and creative director Rachel Scott launched Diotima in 2021 – and in just three years, she’s been nominated for the LVMH Prize, won the CFDA Award for Emerging Designer of the Year, and is one of this year’s recipients of NET-A-PORTER’s global mentorship program, The Vanguard. Inspired by her Jamaican roots, New York-based Scott weaves references to Caribbean style into every design and works directly with craftspeople in her home country to create the crocheted elements that have become her signature. “I would see [crochet] in friends’ homes as table runners, doilies on dressers, toilet-roll covers and little home decorations like that, but then I would also wear little crocheted bikinis to beach parties,” she says. “I was fascinated by how this technique could be at once so domestic, while also being extremely sexy.”
Abbi Minchin, NET-A-PORTER junior market editor, in Diotima
Discovering Diotima
“Diotima first caught our attention as an LVMH Prize nominee, and since it launched on NET-A-PORTER last year, we have really seen the brand’s aesthetic and approach to design resonate with customers. Now a regular fixture on the NYFW schedule and having recently been awarded Emerging Designer of the Year by the CFDA, the brand felt like the perfect match for our newly relaunched Vanguard program.
“What we loved about Diotima from the start is its slow, considered approach to craft, as well as the construction of the garments, which are incredibly detailed. The garments feel very wearable, too. There are, of course, those extra-special pieces, but there are also T-shirts and blazers – items people wear every day – reworked with this unique crocheted element. We hadn’t seen something like that in the market for a long time. And, while artisanal references do come up and have become a bigger trend in recent years, when we discovered Diotima, we thought: ‘This brand is doing it in a really cool, interesting way.’”
All in the details
“When I’m shopping for an event, I always look out for pieces with something unique about them, and I think the ‘Medusa’ dress really has that. It features so many handcrafted elements that are interesting to look at, from the intricate crocheted construction to the elegant open back and fringed hem. The hem moved so beautifully as I was walking down the street on this shoot; it felt very fun and playful.”
Wear it your way
“For me personally, the dress would be more of an event option, because it feels very special, but that’s not to say it wouldn’t work for the office paired with a slouchy tote. I would style it with a soft clutch for a night out, perhaps with Loewe’s ‘Flamenco’ clutch or The Row’s ‘Margaux’ bag, and then a strappy sandal. There’s a lot going on at the bottom of the dress, so I wouldn’t want to distract from that with, say, a chunky boot or an intricate heel; styling should be quite simple so that the dress is the centerpiece.”
Considered craft
“When it comes to working with new brands, we always consider what steps they’re taking towards sustainability, and Diotima does it in a very authentic way. The brand works with artisanal communities in Jamaica [where designer Rachel Scott was born] and local factories in New York, where it’s based, to create every design. I think when you can incorporate so many intricate elements into a product that feels true to your DNA, but you can do it in a considered way, then that’s pretty incredible, especially for such a young brand.”
Everything you need to know about Liberowe
A trip to Delhi left an indelible mark on Liberowe founder Talia Loubaton, whose label is part of The Vanguard. It’s where the London-based, Paris-born designer first fell in love with sherwanis – a traditional menswear coat that would eventually inspire the design of her signature ‘Raja’ jacket. “I wanted it to be more feminine, yet not too much,” she says. “I reshaped it again and again until I found the right balance and a perfect fit that elongates the silhouette.” Qualifying for our NET SUSTAIN edit of consciously crafted clothing, every Liberowe design is handmade in London using responsibly sourced fabrics and as many deadstock materials as possible. “It is essential to rethink the whole industry – how we supply, how we make, how we consume,” says the designer. “I feel part of a generation that is much more aware of all the waste and damage caused by fast fashion; now, it’s our role to change things.”
Roopa Hathi, NET-A-PORTER merchandising manager, in Liberowe
Discovering Liberowe
“I first discovered Liberowe after it launched on NET-A-PORTER in September 2023. I was particularly interested in the interplay between Indian menswear and 1970s Paris, as well as the history behind the brand’s creation – Talia Loubaton’s passion for sherwanis and Indian culture played a significant role. As someone of Indian descent, it’s wonderful to see my culture and ethnicity represented in luxury fashion.
“I also love how the brand gives the wearer the freedom to embrace their own style through such detailed designs, which can either be quite masculine or feminine, depending on how you want to wear them.”
Wear it your way
“My favorite look has to be the signature ‘Raja’ jacket in white, worn with the ‘Alex’ skirt – I’m a huge fan of coordinated two-piece outfits – although I wore the navy version for the shoot, which is just as beautiful. I liked how the team balanced the structure of the jacket with a sultry skirt and boots. It was glamorous and sophisticated, but it wasn’t too much; the jacket was still the star of the show.
“If I were to style it myself, I’d choose a white ribbed tank top and straight-leg jeans for a versatile day-to-evening outfit. I’m such a shoe girl and always like to elevate and complete my looks with a great shoe. For daytime, I’d go for a mid-heel, such as Manolo Blahnik’s ‘Maysale’ pumps. For evening, I’d opt for dressier styles with a higher heel, like Christian Louboutin’s ‘Kate 85’ slingbacks. Then, I’d finish the look with delicate gold jewelry, which I think adds a nice finishing touch.”
Considered craft
“I’m impressed by the brand’s focus on sustainability and circularity. Utilizing deadstock materials not only highlights a creative approach, but also brings attention to the beauty and value of repurposing what we already have. For me, sustainability represents a thoughtful, innovative approach to design that ultimately supports a more conscious industry.”