A masterclass in evening jewelry
Elevate your after-dark look with brilliant red jewels – LAURA HAWKINS reveals the go-to designers and how to style fall/winter 2020’s red-hot pieces
When it comes to eveningwear, labels including Valentino, Gabriela Hearst and The Vampire’s Wife were on red alert for FW20, dialing up the after-dark drama with statement dresses imagined in scarlet, crimson and cherry. If you’re too reserved for such a riot of red, accessories sparkling with carnelians, spinels and rubies, or accented with candy-apple-colored splashes of enamel and leather, provide an exquisite alternative.
“There’s a reason that red gemstones are sought after for eveningwear, especially rubies, as they show off their best color in incandescent light, particularly candlelight,” explains Jessica Wyndham, head of Sotheby’s jewelry sales in Europe. Particularly illuminating are pieces by Mumbai-based designer Bina Goenka, who juxtaposes diamonds against vivid-colored gemstones. Goenka’s naturalistic diamond and ruby drop earrings are inspired by delicate flowers picked on walks through London’s parks. “Rubies make my pieces feel alive,” says Goenka. “Their facets and veins represent the curves and veins of a petal.” For a gothic take on partywear, accentuate Goenka’s floral forms with dresses in black satin, chiffon and lace.
Bea Bongiasca also designs with a floricultural focus. Her graphic gold, diamond and enamel pieces are inspired by the tendrils of intertwined vines. “The tonal evolution in the designs gives them a kinetic movement as well as a bold pop look,” says the Milan-based jeweler of her scarlet rings and heart-shaped earrings, adding: “Red is associated with passion, love and courage.” When it comes to styling, these distinctive pieces are best emphasized against crisp white shirting.
A starched shirt cuff also complements a colorful timepiece – the gamine answer to evening embellishment. Look to Jaeger-LeCoultre, Cartier and Piaget for styles with diamond-dazzling bezels and luxurious straps in crimson leather; an exquisite addition to any watch wardrobe.