Why White Gold Is Making A Comeback For SS23
After a strong inclination towards yellow gold in recent seasons, jewelers are rediscovering the subtle elegance of white gold, says MILENA LAZAZZERA
Having reached dizzying, multi-colored heights in recent seasons, fashion is finally settling on a sensible silver shade for spring’s zeitgeist. Metallic silver in all its hues and textures dominated the SS23 collections and red carpets, and it was the common thread of Alessandro Michele’s dramatic last act for Gucci – twin models holding hands and dressed head-to-toe in silver prophetically announced the new era. Gucci has spoken – silver is back.
Swiftly echoing the runways, jewelers are switching to white gold – the alloy made with palladium, nickel and silver that perfectly synthesizes elegance and enigma. White gold has a cool and steely hue, but only the wearer knows that it is more precious than standard silver or any other non-descript metal.
“We first saw a significant increase in white-gold sales towards the second half of 2022, with a 50 percent rise compared to the first half of 2022,” says London-based fine jeweler Roxanne First, whose brand specializes in fun-loving, colorful jewels for everyday wear. Among Roxanne First’s most popular styles in white gold are her huggie earrings, which she has adorned with sparkling diamonds and a splash of exuberant green garnets. Other favorites from the designer include slinky tennis bracelets, which are perfect for stacking, and celestial charms that can be added to necklaces or earrings.
The current rise in popularity of white gold can be explained by its panache for enhancing the brilliance of diamonds. Earlier this year, Angela Bassett’s striking, and spiraling, diamond Chopard earrings shone brightly in their white-gold frames, as she received the Golden Globe for her role in Black Panther: Wakanda Forever. Equally, David Morris’s signature rose-cut diamonds radiate more light when set in white gold, especially in its diamond-pavé ‘Fortuna’ bracelets and oh-so-cute ‘Beaux’ bangles. Valérie Messika is also enthusiastic about the winning combination of white gold and diamonds – especially for “jewels showcasing large stones as a central focus of the design”, which are currently highly sought-after. Even without diamonds, Boucheron’s classic white-gold tassel earrings cast a decidedly enchanting aura on Salma Hayek when she walked the red carpet this season.
“White gold is the perfect canvas to highlight colored gemstones; it allows a piece to feel a little more subtle and has an effortless and contemporary feel,” says designer Ananya Malhotra. Ananya’s creations, replete with symbolism, ooze a high-toned refinement in white gold. Cue the ‘Scatter’ wing-shaped earrings that capture a burst of tsavorites and peridots in varying shades of green – a metaphor of metaphysical energies.
“Yellow gold has always been considered traditional, historically associated with ceremonies, but there’s a growing desire to be more experimental and less traditional,” adds Malhotra.
Certainly, in the front row of avant-garde experimentalism are the jewels envisioned by Eéra’s founders, Chiara Capitani and Romy Blanga. Their already iconic carabiner earrings, coated in myriad high-octane colors, from Barbie fuchsia to electric baby blue, have dangled from the ears of Dua Lipa, Hailey Bieber and Chiara Ferragni, to name just a few.
White gold, at Eéra, is in high demand. It could be down to a desire for change or simply because the darkening economic horizon and world affairs call for more restraint than the audacious gleam of yellow gold – but “there are always so many factors that contribute to the cycle from yellow to white gold, and it’s only natural that it occurs,” Eéra’s designers ponder wisely.
The latest additions to Eéra’s range include a diamond pavé single earring in the shape of a safety pin and a charming mini huggie set with a single tiny diamond, embraced by an enamel pop of neon yellow or pink. There are also industrial-looking, white-gold beaded necklaces featuring a chunky clasp as a centerpiece, and a tapered chain necklace, ending with the brand’s signature carabiner, studded in diamonds.
Yet Eéra’s founders are right: the pendulum regularly swings between yellow and white gold, and there are no set rules – nor is there a lack of choice – when it comes to donning our favorite. So before the tides change once more, let’s just indulge a little in some white-gold wonders.
RELATED READING
The models featured in this story are not associated with NET-A-PORTER and do not endorse it or the products shown