The chic sleep: Belmond Casa de Sierra Nevada
This historic hotel in the vibrant city of San Miguel de Allende is a must-visit on any Mexican trail. By AJESH PATALAY
For good reason, this picture-postcard city has been voted the best in the world: with its narrow cobblestone streets, Spanish-Baroque architecture (painted vibrant shades of yellow, orange and red), and cosmopolitan blend of boutiques, galleries and restaurants, this place will lull anyone into a state of euphoria. Did we mention that the town – all 64 historic blocks of it – was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site, too? Tourists may head to Tulum and Cancun for the beaches, but should venture here for the beauty and charm (the ravishing sunset, offset by the regal pink-gothic spire of the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel cathedral, is one of many Instagrammable highlights). And Belmond Casa de Sierra Nevada is arguably the most desirable place to stay. The layout of this heritage hotel, which stretches across six separate buildings, most of them arranged around flower-fragrant courtyards, feels homely and authentic (you move between them as if shuttling between casas on a family estate), while each room is different but filled with luxurious details, from gorgeously patterned Talavera tiles to quarry-stone fireplaces and private plunge pools.
THE DETAILS
Visit
San Miguel is famed as an artists’ haven, so be sure to view the unfinished murals (like optical illusions) by David Alfaro Siqueiros at the Bellas Artes, and the sweeping historical mural in tribute to heroes of Mexican independence by David Leonardo at the town’s other art school, Instituto Allende. Also head to the Guadaloupe art district, to enjoy its lively street art, with work by young artists from Mexico and beyond. Or else pop into Galeria Nudo, which ranks among the best of the many commercial galleries here.
Try
Belmond Casa de Sierra Nevada offers a range of activities aimed to immerse guests in local culture, from cooking classes (where you source the ingredients from the market for dishes such as cactus salad and chicken with mole) to tequila tasting to painting workshops held outside in the cactus garden. Otherwise, why not book a massage in the spa or just loll by the pool?
Dine
Alongside the hotel’s three excellent restaurants, choose from these chic options: La Unica, which specializes in Mexican fusion food; Casa 1810, a rooftop restaurant attached to a hotel that’s perfect for steak; and Quince, which boasts spectacular views overlooking the cathedral, and is the ideal destination for dessert or an aperitif.
Shop
This town isn’t short on shops, but among our favorites are Pineda Covalin (home to Hermes-like scarves) in the Fabrica la Aurora, a former textile factory-turned-complex filled with galleries, design stores, exhibition spaces and lifestyle shops. For ceramics worthy of Astier de Villatte – but at a fraction of the cost – head to Trinitate, a store with a courtyard so beautiful you won’t want to leave.
Need to know
Cox & Kings has an 8-day / 5-night private trip to Mexico priced from £1,795 per person including two nights’ B&B at the Galeria Plaza Reforma in Mexico City and 3 nights’ B&B at the Belmond Casa Sierra Nevada, San Miguel de Allende, including transfers and flights.