5 Key Jewelry Trends To Know In 2023
Give your jewelry collection a glow-up with cool and contemporary designs that match the moment, says CHARLIE BOYD
White gold and silver
The fine-jewelry world has been awash with the warm glow of yellow gold for the best part of five years now; and, while it's not losing any supporters, there is a surge in popularity for its alter ego – white gold. As yellow gold has dominated our purchases over the past few years, it’s impractical to suggest a sea change towards white gold overnight – this isn’t about leaving yellow gold behind, but it is time to introduce other metal tones into the mix. Ananya’s ‘Chakra Icon’ is the perfect starting point – pop the white-gold iteration into your yellow-gold wrist stack for an instant FW23 refresh; while Eéra’s new ‘Stone’ collection is the perfect companion to a white tank top and overshirt. Consider investing in two or three key pieces crafted in white gold (or silver) to shake up your styling, such as Melissa Kaye’s cult ‘Cristina’ earrings, or a chain necklace by Shay.
Thick chains
This season, gold is going oversized, so (within reason), the bigger the better. Lauren Rubinski’s ‘Extra Large’ designs make maximum impact but are feather-light to wear, thanks to their hollow interiors. If you’re looking for a thick choker-style chain, Maor’s mixed-metal design is a directional choice, while Susan Caplan Vintage’s Chanel necklace adorns the décolletage with chic medallion coins. Messika’s ‘My Move King’ is a new, jumbo take on the maison’s signature dynamic diamonds, while David Webb’s ‘Anchor’ chain features chic oval links that are hammered to give a subtle gleam. Keep earrings limited to small studs, huggies or hoops, to avoid distracting from the main event.
1980s earrings
Much like their chunky-chain counterparts, there is a ‘big’ earring revival going on right now. This trend is one that stems from the runway – Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and Khaite are just a few of the ready-to-wear brands that have brought supersized styles back into circulation. You should be thinking shiny, sleek and sculptural – Pomellato’s ‘Iconica’ design and Fernando Jorge’s ‘Flame’ style are all-metal pieces that command attention without the need for diamonds. David Webb’s ‘Retro Hoop’ earrings are an ode to classic ’80s door-knocker designs, while Fred Leighton’s vintage Cartier earrings are an enchanting take on the egg-shape earring that was popular at the time, adorned with vibrant emeralds and set into an 18-karat weave pattern that speaks to the decade’s power tailoring.
Hearts
Another trend straight from the runways is the much-loved heart motif, which has been burgeoning ever since SS23’s collections were first presented. Celine, Saint Laurent and Versace all interpreted heart shapes within a costume-jewelry context, and, since then, the fervor around the heart necklace worn by Margot Robbie in Barbie has only fueled demand for this simple yet sweet emblem. Puffy and oversized pieces should be top of your wish list – Lauren Rubinski’s 14-karat-gold design is so epically large that it's impossible not to smile as it swings on its long chain. Foundrae and Marlo Laz are two go-to brands for heart motifs that feel spiky, sharp and chic rather than saccharine; while Jacquie Aiche has chosen earthy rhodochrosite (rather than pretty pink pastels) to adorn a satisfyingly sassy cocktail ring.
A hero cuff
Each fall, there is a distinct shift away from the whisker-fine chains and colorful gems layered 10 at a time during summer, with a step towards chunky, ‘one and done’ designs that marry with knitwear, tailoring and a smart coat. This is where the hero cuff comes in handy. Choose an elevated yet understated design, such as Rainbow K’s clever ‘Nano Victoire’ cuff, which features a chic diamond-set herringbone pattern – it’s the perfect companion to tweed or wool. Buccellati’s signature 18-karat etched gold cuffs are also highly coveted; their intricate and ultra-precious detailing is subtle but sophisticated. For a piece that will last a lifetime, look to Carolina Bucci – the signature ‘Florentine’ finish of Bucci’s 18-karat-gold cuff feels ultra-elevated on cool and crisp mornings.
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