The Rise Of Genderless Jewelry
As more and more brands focus on gender-fluid collections, CHARLIE BOYD speaks to the fine-jewelry designers stocked at NET-A-PORTER and MR PORTER who are crafting exquisite unisex jewels that style stars can’t get enough of
Designed during lockdown, Fernando Jorge’s Sync collection was inspired by the 1970s; the Brazilian designer wanted to create a collection that felt effortlessly indulgent yet wearable – the fine-jewelry equivalent to the uber-luxe cashmere athleisure that had soared in popularity over the past two years. Flashy, faceted gemstones would have felt like a too-tight waistband. Crucially, however, these designs were also intended for both men and women – a nod to the dissolving gender boundaries across the industry as a whole.
“There has been a noticeable evolution of the men’s jewelry category over the past few years,” says Jorge. “I see this as a natural response to a wider and better understanding of gender fluidity in all areas,” he explains. Always ahead of the curve, he included pieces for both men and women in his Parallel collection in 2017, but found that his female clients were buying the men’s pieces and vice versa. Jorge is now stocked by both NET-A-PORTER and MR PORTER, as is Mateo – a New York-based brand founded by designer Matthew Harris that has similarly mercurial gender codes. “I try not to think about gender,” says Harris. “It’s the last thing on my mind. I grew up with a dapper dad who was just cool and wore jewelry with swag.”
In 2009, Harris designed a men’s collection that he describes as “unisex, more than anything else”, finding that his female clients were shopping for their boyfriends as well as themselves. Harris explains how, for years, men were buying many of his studs and small hoop earrings, and when Rihanna wore one of his men’s designs, the binaries became even less relevant. “Gender is a concept and a topic of discussion these days, but we are above and beyond that – we just want to adorn people in great jewelry,” he says.
“There has been such a shift in the past 18 months,” says Edwina Hilton, jewelry and watches buyer at NET-A-PORTER. “Brands are designing more and more pieces with both men and women in mind, and tweaking designs to appeal to both by increasing the size range or offering something a little bit chunkier,” says Hilton. “The trick is in the styling. You can take a Foundrae or Lauren Rubinski necklace and make it look very feminine or masculine – that is the beauty of jewelry; you can really make it your own,” she adds.
“A lot of boundaries are crumbling, with men becoming more adventurous in their jewelry choices,” agrees Maxim de Turckheim, senior buyer for luxury watches and fine jewelry at MR PORTER. “The rise of streetwear has definitely made it more popular for men to go bolder in their jewelry style, too,” he says. “Celebrities such as Pharrell Williams, Justin Bieber, Jaden Smith and Tyler, the Creator are wearing huge stones, and we are seeing great growth in stone-encrusted pieces from brands including Suzanne Kalan, Maor and Shay, which are leading the way with their gender-neutral styles.”
“You can take a Foundrae or Lauren Rubinski necklace and make it look very feminine or masculine – that is the beauty of jewelry; you can really make it your own
”
How, then, do we tap into the genderless trend? There are key items that have chameleon-like styling qualities. A tennis bracelet – such as a yellow-diamond version by Kolours Jewelry, or a classic white-diamond design by Octavia Elizabeth – can be easily styled alongside a chunky timepiece or paired with other scintillating strands for a more delicate feel. Carolina Bucci’s latest Forte Beads collaboration includes a Judith Leiber design featuring neutral hues of tiger’s eye, gleaming hematite and rock crystal – the perfect piece to update a wrist stack for any gender.
Much like the luxury-sneaker market, where designs are often defined by size, chains are now often selected by length rather than by their masculine or feminine leaning. “A lot of our customers are asking for shorter necklaces to be worn on the collar bone, as it looks cool to have something chunky with a simple white T-shirt,” explains de Turckheim. At 45 centimeters, Foundrae’s ‘Sister Hook’ chain is perhaps the ultimate couple’s goal, with switchable pendants to express your style, if you’re willing to share. “Why should fabulous jewelry just be associated with women?” asks Hilton. “It is a great way to show personality, or mark a special moment in your life, whatever your gender.”