How to care for box braids: before, during & after

Preparing your hair with a deep-conditioning treatment is essential, as it “will help to strengthen and revitalize the hair,” says London-based hairstylist Charlotte Mensah. Your hair should also be thoroughly cleansed and detangled to help get rid of any product build-up and avoid breakage, while a pre-braid blowout will ensure minimal frizz.

According to in-demand stylist Larry Sims, which extensions you use comes down to personal choice. “Synthetic hair is more popular and lasts six to eight weeks,” he explains, “whereas human hair is softer and is usually good for three to four weeks.” Mensah recommends smaller braids for finer hair types (“Too big and you won’t get the volume you desire and could potentially damage your hair”), while thicker hair types should go larger, or risk “millions of braids that are too thick to style”. Crucially, make sure your stylist doesn’t install too tightly – particularly around the more delicate edges; Lacy Redway, who works with Tessa Thompson, Zazie Beetz and KiKi Layne, says she prefers to “leave the very tip of the hairline out to avoid putting too much weight on that area.”

To minimize frizz day-to-day, Mensah suggests sleeping on a silk pillowcase. It’s also a smart idea to reinstall braids around the hairline every two to three weeks – this not only gives the illusion of a completely fresh set of braids, but also helps prevent breakage. Between refreshes, Redway recommends keeping baby hairs smooth by slicking them down with an edge-control gel and a toothbrush.

“Co-washing [washing hair with conditioner only, or a special co-wash formula] re-establishes the moisture and gives a really nice, shiny finish without the residue of the soap,” explains Sims. Briogeo’s Be Gentle, Be Kind Avocado + Quinoa Co-Wash Shampoo cleanses without stripping hair, and is ideal for weekly or twice monthly use; mix one-part product to three-parts water in a spray bottle, apply to the scalp, massage and rinse through. For extra moisture, try Vernon François’ Pure-Fro Conditioner – it’s a lightweight but hydrating formula that helps prevent product build-up and has a handy spritz function that’s well-suited to box braids.

Brands such as Philip Kingsley and Briogeo offer scalp toners that contain antimicrobial ingredients to help cleanse and reinvigorate the scalp between washes. And to lock in hydration and add sheen, make regular use of oils and conditioning mists, such as those from Vernon François or Mensah’s Manketti range.

Most hairstylists agree that braids should be left in for no longer than six weeks – eight at a push. “The longer you leave them in, the less your hair can shed and the more tangled and strenuous it’ll be on the take down,” says Sims. To unravel, Redway advises trimming just below where your natural hair ends and working in sections, saturating braids with conditioner to help them slide out without tension and detangling straight after – Mensah’s Paddle Brush smooths out even super-coarse hair without snagging.

“When hair is in braids, it’s more difficult to moisturize and get full access to the cuticle from root to tip,” says Sims, so you need to compensate with an intensive moisturizing treatment. Likewise, he suggests trimming between every installation. While it’s tempting to re-install immediately, Mensah believes in giving hair a break. “Wear your hair proudly in its natural state for three to four weeks,” she advises. If that seems too long, try three or four days at the very least.