The ’90s Hair Trends Making A Comeback
From the super-sized supermodel blowout to the poker-straight grunge look, the ’90s was a decade of extremes when it came to hair – and these iconic looks are now inspiring a new generation. Here, hair stylist ZOË IRWIN shares how to give them a fresh, modern take
The supermodel set
“Big, lifted, flipped and teased – this was the ultimate ’90s supermodel hair look – particularly Cindy Crawford. When I was on the Versace styling team backstage, the day before the fashion show, we were tested to show we could get the height and lift without the hair falling or flopping when the girls were on the runway. Today, it’s still about having some volume, but in the width rather than the height; you want your hair to have a softness and fluidity like silk, not that rigid, over-teased, hairspray feel.”
The prep work
“First, towel-dry your hair, then use a light oil on the lengths and ends. Put a few drops in your palm and rub your hands together to spread it between the fingers and on the backs of the hands, so that when you run your fingers through your hair, you get an even distribution. Then use a root spray – spritz close to the roots, but six inches away on mid-lengths. The combination of this with the oil creates that beautiful satin finish.”
The styling update
“To get the root lift, rather than using a round brush, it’s easier to blow dry the hair and then use a wide-barrel tong in sections around the hair line – wrap the hair on top of itself on the barrel, not down the barrel, so it creates a curl, not a wave. Make sure you roll the first section (just above the ears) forward, while you roll the rest back from the face – it helps create that volume at the sides where you want it. When you’ve tonged a section, quickly wrap it around a large Velcro roller while hair is still hot and clip it in place, so it sets the big curl as it cools; if you tong it and let it loosely fall, you end up with a textured beachy finish. After it’s brushed out, you’ll have lift at the root, and body, but the hair has a modern softness to it.”
Glammed-up grunge
“The original look could almost be harsh because it was so straight, while today it has more of a flow so your hair has a swing and healthiness to it. Before, we would oil and then spray the hair before running the straightening irons through; now, we use a hot brush to create that smooth look, but with a bit of a lift. The GHD Duet Style 2-in-1 Hot Air Styler – which combines a blow-dryer with straightening styler – is perfect for this, as you can run it through the hair just as you would the irons, but it still gives some body.”
The prep work
“A hydrating blow-dry cream is really good for this style, as it controls the hair without making it heavy. The difference between salon and home hair is how product is applied – in the salon, we distribute it through the hair in sections; at home, most people put it on their hands and then put their hands on the top of their head and smooth them down the hair. Even holding your head to one side so the hair falls away and then working the product through the lengths with your fingers will make a difference. Start lightly and add more if you need to. Oribe’s Superfine Hair Spray is beautifully light and helps keep that silky straightness; mist it through the lengths or spray it in the air and then walk through it, like you would with a perfume. Otherwise, mist the bristles of your hairbrush before brushing through the hair, but from underneath.”
The styling update
“You want the hair straight but not ironed flat. I use the GHD Duet or a flat brush and first slightly lift up the section of hair to elevate it at the roots, so it’s not lying flat to the head, before running the heat through it. Also, giving it a slight curve at the ends creates a more modern finish. A deep side parting is big this season, but I think it looks more modern with a center parting.”
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The models featured in this story are not associated with NET-A-PORTER and do not endorse it or the products shown