How Bridgerton Is Inspiring A Regency-Jewelry Revival
As cult period drama Bridgerton returns to our screens this week, its treasure trove of exquisite jewels is also reigniting the allure of Georgian-inspired designs
Those who devoured season one of Bridgerton will know how jewelry played a starring role: not only was every principal character beautifully bedecked, but all the extras were also expertly adorned, with jewelry effortlessly illustrating various personalities and societal standings scene by scene. Certain jewels even drove the narrative – for while few will forget the extravagant diamond necklace given to the leading lady Daphne Bridgerton by Prince Friedrich, die-hard fans are still speculating its whereabouts after she abandoned it on a garden bridge (along with their plans for marriage). Thankfully, we can expect more of these scintillating moments in season two.
“Jewelry is the icing on the cake – we have so many different elements of costume, but the jewelry is what pulls everything together,” says Sophie Canale, costume designer for season two. Under Canale, every outfit for each character has been given a custom jewelry set, informed by a sketch of the clothing and a fabric swatch, to achieve seamless synergy between the jewels and their canvas. The introduction of a new family into London society, the Sharmas, brings an opportunity to explore the beauty of Indian-style treasures, too, while those who swoon at the sight of a tiara will welcome another development – the proliferation of hair jewels. Lorenzo Mancianti, the show’s head of jewelry, crafted countless hair pieces and pins to match each parure in season two, which conveniently timed with a cult trend for hair adornments on the SS22 runways.
Creating this depth and breadth was no easy feat, however, with Mancianti explaining that each jewel required sourcing the perfect metal elements, soldering, gilding in gold or silver, and then distressing to give a more authentic look, before being set with Swarovski crystals, glass or semi-precious stones. With approximately 400 pieces of jewelry worn in season two alone, the design and creation of these gems was a gargantuan task.
Contemporary designers who draw upon Regency design codes within their own collections are, of course, familiar with these challenges, but they always keep the undeniable charm of the epoch in mind. “The Georgian attention to detail, love of sentimentality, handmade craftsmanship and somewhat naïve (by contemporary standards) stone cuts continue to be coveted by collectors,” explains Emily Satloff, designer and founder of New York-based brand Larkspur & Hawk. “We design for a modern woman and her lifestyle, rather than a woman dressed in 18th-century clothing,” she says. “One hallmark of our brand is reinventing the use of foil-lined settings, giving the jewelry a technical reference to the past with a modern sensibility; we use an in-depth understanding of historical jewelry design and craftsmanship to create contemporary jewelry that is decidedly not a reproduction of the past.”
With every period drama, there is an inevitable frisson of critique and excitement when the first episode is released and the historical accuracy of the costumes is duly scrutinized, jewels included. Bridgerton’s jewelry, however, removes itself from this polemic entirely, with Canale crafting her own house style that marries historical nods with clever modernity, rather than adhering to strict Regency styles alone. In season two, more contemporary designs are attributed to the younger members of the cast, while original Georgian pieces are bestowed upon the older characters to mimic inherited jewels being passed down the family line as younger girls show an interest in fashionable trends – creating a hybrid aesthetic that appeals to modern-day viewers.
“Georgian jewelry has very distinctive characteristics, which I think gives it such a great, modern appeal,” says Edwina Hilton, fine jewelry and watches buyer at NET-A-PORTER. “It is very unique, and brands today are keeping the tradition alive and bringing it into the present day,” she adds, citing Anita Ko’s new Daphne collection as the perfect interpretation for the modern woman. Ko was inspired to create a collection around the show’s protagonist, “as if she lived in 2022”, with a particular focus on pear-shaped diamonds. “I fell in love with a necklace Daphne wore in the first season and was so inspired, I wanted to create my own modern version – one that I could wear with my lifestyle and the way I dress,” explains Ko.
Similarly inspired by the Regency period, David Morris created its Rose Cut collection, where rose-cut diamonds made popular in the Georgian era once again abound. “I adore the elegant proportions, decorative elements and symmetry of Regency design; there is an inherent timelessness to designs of the period, whether it be architecture on a grand scale or the delicate and highly feminine jewelry typical of the time,” says Jeremy Morris, creative director and CEO of David Morris. “The beauty of the Rose Cut collection is that it balances the traditional prettiness of flowers with a modernity that resonates with the woman of today; she is just as likely to wear a Rose Cut diamond necklace with a simple sweater for the office as she is with a dress for a special event,” he adds. “These are heirloom creations with a distinctly of-the-moment feel,” adds Morris – perhaps also a fitting summary for Bridgerton itself.
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