The Neo-Vintage Jewelry Trend: How Downton Abbey And Bridgerton Have Transformed Our Collections
The divide between antique and modern jewels is disappearing, as contemporary designers create a new hybrid of fine jewelry that perfectly marries past and present. By CHARLIE BOYD
The term ‘neo-vintage’ might sound like an oxymoron, but in the fine jewelry world, it is the mantra of the moment. A neo-vintage jewel has a particular chameleon-esque quality, revisiting antique artisanry and transporting it into the modern era. Over the past 10 years there has been an ever-increasing demand for neo-vintage designs, with period dramas such as Downton Abbey, The Great and Bridgerton upping the ante. Thanks to these TV sensations, lustrous pearls, old-cut diamonds and blackened metals are once more de rigueur, and fine jewelry connoisseurs are seeking out neo-vintage treasures worthy of Lady Mary Crawley, had she sauntered into the 21st century.
“TV dramas like Downton Abbey and Bridgerton have had a huge effect on jewelry design in recent years because they have educated a wider audience on how many styles there are, and how these various pieces can be worn to [create] impact,” explains jewelry designer and lecturer Andrew Prince, who crafted the costume jewelry for Downton Abbey. Prince’s vision for the show was to craft treasures that hinted at tradition while remaining thoroughly modern, so that they would still be desirable today. “In that era, women wore a lot of jewelry – and big pieces at that. No woman would dream of going out in the evening in a mimsy pair of studs and a thin silver chain – it was considered insulting to your host as it looked like you couldn’t be bothered,” he explains. “Jewelry should be sumptuous, glittering and above all fun to put on, regardless of the period,” he adds.
This is an ethos shared by Emily Satloff, founder of New York-based brand Larkspur & Hawk, who has single-handedly revived a lost Georgian art by lining closed-back settings with vivid metallic foils. Satloff believes that ready-to-wear fashion collections have also played their part in the neo-vintage zeitgeist. “Over the past 10 years, we have seen women’s fashion design really embrace the romance of Georgian-inspired dresses, with smocked bodices, empire waists and never-ending calico prints – this has given vintage-inspired jewelry the perfect backdrop,” she explains. Satloff’s latest collection, Valentina, pays homage to the anatomical heart motif of the Georgian era – a surprisingly edgy silhouette that makes each jewel feel contemporary enough to be worn with the cocoon coats and wide-legged jeans on our horizon for FW21.
“Great vintage pieces can be hard to find, and for clients who love the vintage style but want something specific, a newly created piece is often the best way to go
”
Swiss designer Nadia Morgenthaler, who crafts an exclusive handful of bespoke neo-vintage designs a year, also attributes the movement to eclectic fashion tastes. “In recent years, fashion has been particularly liberated: you can mix everything and anything, which makes it much easier to combine designs from different eras. We are fortunate to live a period of great creativity where everything is possible,” she enthuses.
Similarly inspired by 18th-century settings, Jessica McCormack set out in 2008 to create jewels that feel modern and wearable, while redefining the concept of everyday diamonds. In just 13 years, the New Zealand-born designer has become a global sensation; her signature blackened button-back settings now spotted on Hollywood actors and supermodels alike. McCormack’s designs feature stones ranging from 0.2 carats to as large as you can afford, but always showcase innovative design paired with antique-inspired artistry. “I learned early on how using traditional techniques and settings can elevate a piece,” she explains. “Our button-back finish, for example, is a Georgian technique that just makes sense – it gets the very best out of a diamond,” she says. “I’ve always been inspired by old jewelry, and if I can remake grandma’s pearls into something for a modern woman, then I feel like it’s a job well done,” she quips.
There are other, more sentimental and practical reasons why neo-vintage jewels might appeal more than an original antique, too. “Some people find antique jewelry superstitious and prefer to purchase new pieces to create their own memories. These designs are also less delicate and fragile and can withstand everyday wear,” explains Kim Carosella, co-founder of New York-based brand Sorellina, whose Victoria collection features snake motifs – a popular symbol of the Victorian age. “Our customers also love the customization possibilities that come with new pieces,” adds her sister and co-founder, Nicole Carosella.
“The preference for either vintage or vintage-style pieces is often a personal one,” agrees Greg Kwiat, CEO of Fred Leighton, an American maison founded in 1972 that deals in original vintage jewels, but also produces its own collection of neo-vintage designs. “Some jewelry lovers and collectors appreciate the rarity of an original piece from the period, while other people love the style of a bygone era but are less concerned with the age of the piece itself,” explains Kwiat. “Great vintage pieces can be hard to find, and for clients who love the vintage style but want something specific, a newly created piece is often the best way to go. At Fred Leighton, we say that we design the vintage pieces we wish we could find.”
Rome-based brand Dubini is perhaps the ultimate incarnation of neo-vintage style. “In my work, I revive ancient coins that would perhaps end up in private collections or museums, and set them into modern jewelry pieces,” explains founder Benedetta Dubini. Featuring coins originating from the Greek, Roman and Persian empires, each piece is entirely irreplaceable and imbued with the mythological and historical culture of its period. “I think of my customers as collectors coming to me to find a missing piece of treasure,” says Dubini. “New pieces that look antique can offer the best of both worlds: they maintain the essence of the past, while encapsulating the glistening potential of the future.”
RELATED READING
MODERN TREASURES
6 items