Art of Style

The Working Wardrobe: Aindrea Emelife

Fresh from the success of her Black Venus exhibition at Somerset House in London, AINDREA EMELIFE now has the Nigerian Pavilion at Venice Biennale 2024 on her horizon. Here, the curator and art historian talks to FRANCINE HEATH about her other love: fashion – revealing the stories behind her clothes and why she always holds on to them

Photography Lily Bertrand-WebbStyling Kristen Neillie
Fashion
Dress, Givenchy; boots, Toteme; bag, Alexander Wang; earrings, Isabel Marant

Named in 2022 as one of PORTER’s six incredible women shaking up the art world, Aindrea Emelife’s star shines just as brightly today, but, admittedly, she remains hopeful a time will come where we don’t need to celebrate such milestones. “I’m very conscious of how being a woman in the art world is revolutionary,” says Emelife. “I’m looking forward to a real, equitable art world,” she explains, before adding, “That being said, I think it’s incredibly meaningful to be someone who future generations can see and know that it’s possible. When you look around and see others like you doing something, it allows you to dream.”

You will need to dream big if you’re looking to follow in this Nigerian-British changemaker’s footsteps, who is proving exactly what’s possible as a young Black female curator. Following the lauded Black Venus exhibition at London’s Somerset House, which brought together the work of 18 Black women and non-binary artists to explore the othering, fetishization and reclamation of narratives around Black femininity, Emelife was announced as the curator of Nigeria’s national pavilion at Venice Biennale 2024. “It’s occupying my full attention because representing a nation is a big, big task, and I’m really looking forward to it,” she shares.

Digging a little deeper into how Emelife began carving her unique path, it turns out that it all began with a fashion blog created in her early teens, which led to internships on the Sunday Times Style desk and the independent magazine Tank, where she explored how the worlds of fashion and art collide. A lightbulb moment happened at Tank when she was handed an art issue to work on, influenced by her love of show-hopping and spending hours upon hours at the National Portrait Gallery. Though fashion was never far from her mind, art took over as a career focus, her aim being to discover more visual ways to tell stories using her instinctive eye and studies at the Courtauld Institute of Art. “What I found most interesting when I was looking at fashion is how it related to other art forms, and how collections had been inspired by other realms of creativity,” she reveals. “Designers are weaving stories with what might otherwise be seen as something quite perfunctory, and I think it’s these stories that we all tell – as designers, journalist and curators – that are so important.”

Storytelling doesn’t stop at work for Emelife, who admits to viewing clothes as a way to carve out an identity and present her own narrative. Read on to discover her thoughts on personal style and her tips for curating a powerful, well-loved wardrobe.

Play with juxtapositions

“Bold colors look good on me, especially white and red or bright pink, navy, soft powder-blues and so on, and a pale lemon yellow is also really nice. At 29, I am at a weird in-between age where I feel like I should be trying to, not ‘dress like a grown-up’, because there’s no such thing, but perhaps dress a little differently. I cling on to fanciful, girly vibes, but I now try to mix it with something strong or serious. Mixing pretty things with something like a chunky knee boot or a corporate-girl blazer creates a juxtaposition that almost doesn’t make sense. I am quite conscious about representation and which pieces make sense for what – but without being too rigid, because I know this world tries to put people in boxes. I believe there’s something important about resisting those schemes.”

I am entering the period of wanting to explore and play with accessories more – I definitely hold back less now, which is part of the Nigerian sensibility of embracing what is fun… I have an ultra-sparkly pair of heels that I rarely wear, but when I do slip them on, they totally brighten the evening
Dress, shoes, bag, and earrings, all Saint Laurent
Shoes, Loewe

Accessorize boldy

“I feel like I have ebbed and flowed with accessorizing for so long. Everybody goes through trying to figure out how they want to present themselves, and they can become shy at some points before just embracing being unabashedly themselves. I am entering the period of wanting to explore and play with accessories more – I definitely hold back less now, which is part of the Nigerian sensibility of embracing what is fun. I really love a great shoe: one of my favorite pairs is clear, echoing my love of materials and translucency, and I have an ultra-sparkly pair of heels that I rarely wear, but when I do slip them on, they totally brighten the evening. I enjoy accessorizing with one statement item, and it is usually a shoe or a bag. I tend to be a bit more subtle with jewelry, but a sparkly shoe or bag goes a long way.”

Top, Ashish; leather pants, Dries Van Noten; shoes, Toteme; bag, Bottega Veneta

Create ‘memory moments’

“I love adding an unexpected edge to my outfits, and I’m kind of into throwing in a bit of latex or something patent. These fabrics really rub against the girly-girl aesthetic that I otherwise go for, and it’s about finding these different corners of my personality and representing them. It’s also about embracing a different time in my life, when I was much younger and loved going out in Soho – I’m not saying I don’t go out now, but much less so. It’s nice to have these little ‘memory moments’ in the way that we dress. I see dressing almost as visiting your memories or the past, and I think that’s why I like to keep hold of certain things.”

I enjoy accessorizing with one statement item, and it is usually a shoe or a bag. I tend to be a bit more subtle with jewelry, but a sparkly shoe or bag goes a long way
Bag (left), Bottega Veneta; shoes, Gucci; bag (right), Saint Laurent

Learn your lines

“Strapless looks tend to work well on me, as I like my shoulders; I also think strapless styles have remained quite elegant throughout fashion history. I like wearing something strapless, or a boat neck, because it’s such a beautiful way to approach angles and lines – I guess I’m thinking about it from quite a geometric or minimalist point of view. I love certain lines, things that are narrow or sharp. The lines of the collarbone are accentuated when things are strapless, and I really enjoy that simplicity.”

Dress, Tove; shoes, Loewe; necklace, Martha Calvo
Dress, Tove; leather coat, Loewe; necklace, Martha Calvo

Stay true to your core items

“One of my style signatures is that I wear really oversized blazers all the time. And when I say oversized, I mean oversized. I like how they don’t quite sit on my shoulders and one of them sort of falls off. I find this interesting because there are a lot of men in the industry I work in, and it almost feels like I’m cosplaying as the person who is usually doing the role that I do. I’m poking fun at that a little bit. I’ll typically wear something super-oversized with quite a feminine dress. I’m also never without a great pair of leather knee boots in the winter. I’ve had so many pairs over the years, and I wear them all season long. Slip dresses are another core item for me, because I’m really interested in painting them. I’ll stain them in interesting ways to create scattered, bleeding colors.”

Top, Wardrobe.NYC; skirt, Dries Van Noten; cuff, Saint Laurent; necklace, Martha Calvo; earrings, Bottega Veneta

Curate your own color palette

“Art influences how I dress and approach color quite organically, becoming more obvious depending on what I’m working on. At the moment, I’m doing a lot of work with African art and I’m finding myself drawn to khaki greens and natural, sand colors. Because I’m spending much more time in Nigeria, I feel like the things I’m excited by are blending, or merging, into more natural color scopes. This even happened with one of the outfits I wore for this shoot – a black knitted top by Wardrobe.NYC and a Dries Van Noten skirt that reminded me of raffia. When I was wearing it, I was thinking it was the sort of thing I’d wear when I’m in Nigeria. As a curator, you’re very visual and you pay a lot of attention to the way things look. It’s about what story you’re trying to tell, and I definitely apply some of the same tools I use in my job into curating myself.”

Find your beauty signature

“Honestly, I have only just started to really think about my skincare regime, but a beauty signature is something I have had for a long time. It’s a cat-eye eyeliner flick, and this has been the case ever since I was a young girl. I tend to wear it with a deep plum or oxblood eyeshadow that is typically quite smudgy, because I don’t really know how to apply eyeshadow very well – so I just made smudginess my thing. I will always have a dark lip gloss on, too. Even though I love wearing something girly, I do have quite a grungy makeup style. It’s a fun contrast.”

I love adding an unexpected edge to my outfits… it’s about finding different corners of my personality and representing them
Shoes, JW Anderson. Jewelry (clockwise from top left): gold earrings, Balenciaga; hoop earrings, and recycled silver earrings, both Completedworks; necklace, Martha Calvo; gold square hoop earrings, and cuff, both Saint Laurent; jade earrings, Sophie Buhai

Keep what you love

“Like any curator, I assemble, and I keep things – I try not to call it hoarding! I find great value in creating an archive and it’s quite difficult for me to let go of things, mostly because I know I’ll reference them in the future. I recently started re-wearing a dress that I was really obsessed with when I was 16 years old. It’s somehow come back into my story. In the same way we think about archiving ideas or artworks, I see my wardrobe as a notebook that’s filled with different chapters of my life. In truth, my wardrobe is an amalgamation of things I’ve collected from my early teens until now, and it really does all get used. It’s not color-coordinated and it’s very densely packed. Lately, I’ve become really interested in collecting archive pieces from some of my favorite past collections, so there’s a little bit of that and some vintage. I think being well-dressed means feeling at home and feeling confident. In some ways, I still cling on to some of the things my mother would tell me about being well-dressed and having something that makes you look put together, but when I really feel well-dressed is when I look unique or different – whether that’s finding new designers, young labels or things from the past that have been forgotten. Being well-dressed is about wearing something that tells a story.”