The Ultimate Skin Regimen To Treat Hyperpigmentation

Vitamin C is the ultimate brightening agent. “If you’re using vitamin C on its own, percentage really matters,” says skin-health expert Dr. Anita Sturnham. “I find 10% is best because you get all the pigment-stabilizing benefits without the risk of aggravating skin.” Niacinamide is equally great for addressing pigmentation. “Paired together, they make the dream team.” Dr. Sturnham suggests using one serum that offers both – ideally with added antioxidants such as ferulic acid – instead of layering each one as a single ingredient. “They boost the efficacy of one another. Plus, absorption is reduced the further down the pecking order your application is.” If you have sensitive skin, look for a formula with ascorbyl glucoside – a more stable form of vitamin C. “It gets converted back to L-ascorbic acid in your skin, so it switches on all the vitamin C receptors in the same way, but without the side effects,” says Dr. Sturnham. “Plus, it won’t give you that skin flush when it’s mixed with niacinamide.”

Found naturally in grains, azelaic acid is great for inflammatory conditions. “If you have pigmentation, sensitive skin and are prone to breakouts, it ticks all those boxes,” says Dr. Sturnham. However, she advises not using it at the same time as applying vitamin C. “It’s too much, especially for sensitive skin. Use it on alternate mornings or in the evening instead.” You can find it at 10% in over-the-counter products, or “a prescriptive dose at 15% tends to give the best results for most people”. Top it off with either a hyaluronic acid or squalene serum and a layer of SPF. “That way, your dermis is being treated, plus you’ve got barrier support, hydration and protection on that top layer.”

Adding a retinoid (the overarching term for vitamin A ingredients) into your nighttime routine will boost the production of new skin cells, creating a more even skin tone. “Find the form of retinoid that works well for you – it should give you results without feeling too harsh,” says Dr. Sturnham, who advocates using granactive retinoid (a third-generation variation).“[Unlike retinol] it doesn’t need to be converted to retinoic acid, so you don’t get the same side effects that often come with using a retinol.”

There’s also retinaldehyde (or retinal), found in many new-generation skin and eye serums. This is a stronger type of vitamin A derivative that’s more powerful than retinol and offers fewer side effects. Essentially, you’ll see results faster, without any redness or flaking.

Visible dark patches are old areas of pigmentation that have moved to the skin’s surface from lower layers. “When you have lots of deeper dermal pigmentation, skincare alone is not going to touch it,” says Dr. Sturnham. “I see a lot of people who have had superficial lasers, like IPL or BBL and peels, which generally work on the top layer only. Initially, they think these treatments have worked, but then often find the pigment is much worse a few months later. That’s because these treatments can also set off an inflammatory signal, so melanocytes start making more melanin in the deep dermal layers, which then comes to the surface later – leaving patients stuck in a vicious cycle.” To stop this, Dr. Sturnham says Nd:YAG lasering is the best option. “It can treat the deeper layers of the skin to target where the pigment is coming from and start to break down the superficial pigment that’s bothering you, so it’s the best of both worlds.”

When you’re treating pigmentation, topping up your sunscreen throughout the day and early evening is especially key. “UV rays are such a strong trigger for pigmentation, and more and more studies show that at the upper end of the blue-light spectrum, we’re getting the same level of DNA damage to the skin as we get from being exposed to the sun.” Ideally, we need two sunscreens in our life, says Dr. Sturnham: “Your staple SPF that you use at the start of your day, and a separate product, which usually comes in a spray or a powder, to boost protection.” Besides being the perfect size for carrying in your handbag, these additional SPFs are ideal for topping up every two to three hours to ensure thorough and consistent UV and blue-light protection.

Face-icing: is this the secret to great-looking skin?

Face rolling 101: how to do it and why