Lisa Eldridge Shares Her 5 Pro Hacks For Mastering Red Lipstick

Paired with the right makeup, the elegance of a red lip – whether teamed with a party dress or styled with a T-shirt and jeans – is timeless and seasonless; a single swipe can really pull any look together and, ultimately, deliver a party-approved edge. But when worn with the wrong makeup, it can veer towards looking outdated. The trick, according to Eldridge, lies in your skin finish: “Teaming a bright, statement lip with a pared-back face means you can wear high-impact color while still keeping your look fresh, modern and cool.” Here’s what you need to know in five simple steps…

“If you have dry skin or any dry patches on your face, your makeup can cling to it, so starting with a really hydrated base will ensure the smooth and seamless application of foundation, concealer and any other base products,” says Eldridge. “I like to use Augustinus Bader’s The Cream on a lot of my clients for this.” She suggests working in thin layers, buffing the cream evenly into skin with your fingers. “That way, you won’t have to wait too long between the cream sinking in and applying your foundation.”

“To cheat a natural-looking complexion for that modern, bare-skin look, I use my signature patchwork skin technique,” says Eldridge. “The secret is to apply the majority of coverage only where you need it, buffing your foundation in thin layers that are imperceivable. This really helps makeup last so much longer, too.” Look to the newer lightweight formulas that allow you to build up coverage where needed. “My Seamless Skin Foundation lends itself perfectly to this technique, as you can customize the coverage for concealing and correcting small areas of the face.” Consider the finish, too. “There aren’t any hard-and-fast rules about this, but switching up the finishes (pairing a dewy foundation formula with a matte lip, or a more matte foundation with a dewy or glossy lip) keeps your overall look more balanced and believable.”

“Finish your look with some targeted highlighting on the high points of the face to sculpt your contours, but in a fresh, modern way,” says Eldridge. “Apply a highlighter to the top of the cheekbones, apples of the cheeks, a touch above the eyebrows, along the bridge of the nose, on the Cupid’s bow and anywhere else you want to catch the light. I love using a liquid formula, such as my skincare and highlighter hybrid Elevated Glow Highlighter. If you prefer to use a powder formula, Hourglass’s Ambient Lighting powders are sheer, silky and great for giving that lit-from-within glow.”

As with your skin, it’s important to do the prep work first before sporting a bright lip. “With the cold weather setting in, your lips may feel dry and chapped from the harsh weather, so preparation is everything for a lip that both looks amazing and lasts.” Try Eldridge’s gentle exfoliating trick: “Apply a thick layer of lip balm, then roll some cotton balls along your lips to gently remove any dry and flaky bits. By Terry Baume De Rose is one of my favorite balms for lip prep, as it contains good emollients that help to counteract dryness.”

“I’m often asked how to wear a high-impact lip color without emphasizing a downturned mouth, or inadvertently creating a ‘sad mouth’,” says Eldridge. “So, I created four simple steps that will change the way you apply your lipstick forever. To start, use your favorite concealer and a precision brush to ‘cut off’ the outer, downturned corners of the lower lip. Then, take your chosen statement lipstick and apply it to the lower lip using a lip brush, leaving out those outer corners. Next, apply lipstick to the upper lip, going to the edge of your lip shape, but not over. Finally, to further enhance and define your upper and then lower lips, use a lip liner over your lipstick to create your desired shape.”

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