A Denim Expert’s Guide To Finding The Perfect Pair Of Jeans
Writer, editor and all-round jean genius TILLY MACALISTER-SMITH knows her stuff when it comes to finding the ultimate addition to your denim collection
There is a paradox that exists with jeans: our oldest, most familiar pairs are often our favorite allies, yet, as the seasons change and our bodies and circumstances evolve, so too does our desire to find the perfect new pair. We may be wedded to our old faithfuls, but there’s nothing like a flirtation with a new style to rejuvenate your day-to-day look.
Indeed, the shift towards a more considered ‘buy once, wear forever’ culture chimes well with the inherent endurance of denim. “We want to continue to provide wardrobe staples that transcend one season, or one wear,” agrees Frame co-founder Jens Grede. “To us, urging our customers to consume less, and to invest in high-quality pieces that they will want to wear over and over again, is a more sustainable way of shopping for fashion.” But buying jeans is a highly personal experience; it is less trend-led and more rooted in finding the perfect style to suit your shape and lifestyle all year round. So, if you are on a mission to find the ultimate addition to your denim collection, read on…
Finding the perfect fit
Shopping for jeans IRL can be challenging enough, but when buying online, NET-A-PORTER’s resident denim buyer Flora Fellowes shares some handy tips. “Consider your own height versus the model’s and check what kind of footwear they’re wearing. Then ask yourself if you’re more likely to wear your jeans with heels or flats,” she says. “No one is a cookie-cutter shape. I’m not far off 6ft, so I often find that jeans look like a cropped style on me. On the other hand, my denim-buying assistant, Frankie Taylor, is very petite, so when we are in buying appointments, we cover both ends of the spectrum.” Fellowes often opts for Slvrlake’s longer style, while Taylor wears the brand’s short length.
“Defining the perfect-size jeans primarily depends on the preference of the person wearing them,” points out Re/Done’s co-founder Sean Barron. “We always recommend taking measurements of one’s natural waist, hip, inseam and preferred rise to compare to that of the product. Depending on whether the buyer wants a loose or snug fit, they can choose the sizing that works best for them, based on those measurements.”
It’s also important to check the fabrication of your jeans. Does it have any stretch, for instance? Even rigid denim will give a little with wear, but some jeans have more stretch than others. And be sure to check if they fasten with a zipper or buttons, as you may have a preference for comfort. Finally, consider tailoring your jeans – having them personally fitted can make all the difference in getting the thigh-to-waist ratio just right.
Build your denim wardrobe
Denim has become a year-round style staple, with different weights, washes and cuts that work well for every season. Be tactical and curate a versatile denim wardrobe with longevity. Fellowes explains: “Your forever pieces need to fit your body shape and be trans-seasonal and easy to wear.” Her essential buys include a timeless skinny or straight-leg jean; an elevated white jean (for winter months as well as summer); and an ecru casual jean. Re/Done’s Barron concurs, adding: “There will always be an occasion that calls for an iconic black or indigo pair of jeans. Trends expire, but these heritage washes have stood the test of time for a reason – they are the perfect canvases for constant reinterpretation and evolving cultural shifts.” Consider investing in other denim pieces, too, such as a mannish denim workwear shirt or a versatile playsuit. “Look to the items you love most, and lean into denim silhouettes and washes that pair well with your existing closet,” advises Slvrlake co-founder Louise Edgley. “And always opt for quality fabrics over passing trends.”
Just-right rigid denim
What’s not to love about rigid denim? It has a classic vintage appeal, is hard-wearing, and even holds you in. Rigid doesn’t need to mean stiff and uncomfortable, though – think sturdy and robust, instead. Frame’s straight-leg ‘Le Jane’ jean is a perfect example. “‘Le Jane’ is easy to dress up or down and works for all body types. This style has an ultra-high-rise fit through the hips, and a relaxed fit at the thighs and through the legs, giving it a nostalgic, chic look,” says Frame co-founder Erik Torstensson. Slvrlake’s signature ‘London’ cut is another great example. “I wanted to create a jean that was versatile, comfortable and flattered women. I also wanted a jean that felt timeless, with vintage appeal, that would get better with age,” says Edgley.
Best brands for now
Denim’s elevated transformation continues at full force, thanks to some high-ranking fashionable friends. Khaite’s founder Cate Holstein has extended her unique Manhattan look into highly desirable, just-right jeans, and the coveted ‘Danielle’ high-rise pairs perfectly with the label’s contemporary bodysuits and knits. Loewe, Alaïa and Alexander McQueen have all included denim in their offerings, too. While Chloé’s indigo vest and matching flared jeans embody ’70s chic with modern direction.
“Look to the items you love most, and lean into denim silhouettes and washes that pair well with your existing closet
”Louise Edgley, Slvrlake co-founder
True-blue trends
As ever, clean lines and classic true-blue prevail. Dramatic distressing and acid washes have been shelved in place of timeless, transitional investment pieces. That said, one new silhouette is on the ascent: the barrel leg. Sitting high on the waist, with generous room in the leg, the cut is contemporary and comfortable in equal measure. Look to Totême’s high-rise, tapered jeans, cast in raw Italian denim, which work equally well styled with sneakers or heeled boots.
Caring for your indigos
A little love goes a long way when extending the lifespan of your jeans. While some prefer minimal intervention (even putting jeans in the freezer to kill bacteria rather than washing), what do the experts say? “Rigid denim doesn’t need washing every week, although this will help break it in,” says Fellowes. “I wash mine inside out, on a cold, gentle setting, but some people prefer to handwash.” Lying jeans flat to dry should eradicate creases and prevent the need for ironing, too, although some rigid denim may benefit from a quick press.
Sustainable denim
“Consumers are becoming more conscious of the sustainability and ethical standards of fashion brands,” concludes NET-A-PORTER’s Fellowes. “We are always trying to increase our brand remit of denim NET SUSTAIN brands: Citizens of Humanity, Agolde, Goldsign and Re/Done are all using more innovative ways to produce sustainable denim, such as reducing and recycling water, recycling materials, reducing waste and using more considered materials.”
“Consumers are becoming more conscious of the sustainability and ethical standards of fashion brands
”FLORA FELLOWES, NET-A-PORTER DENIM BUYER
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The people featured in this story are not associated with NET-A-PORTER and do not endorse it or the products shown