3 Mindful Ways To Buy Denim – And How To Make It Last
Looking for a style resolution to stick to in 2024? Try dressing ‘better’ – and start with denim, says FRANCINE HEATH. Get to know the purposeful brands making pieces in mindful ways with our NET SUSTAIN denim edit, and discover expert care-and-repair tips for ultimate staying power
The second week of January signals the time to pause, reflect and begin to put any new year’s resolutions into action. Eating healthier, reading more and traveling are all high up on the list of common goals, but what about your clothes? Now is the perfect time to decide to dress better – and by ‘better’, we don’t solely mean buying into all the latest trends. Instead, dressing better includes tweaking your fashion habits to shop a little more consciously. So, once you’ve taken stock of your closet and resold anything you no longer wear, the search can begin for hardworking wardrobe staples that go the extra mile – and few items work harder than denim.
Owing to its workwear roots, denim is known (and loved) for its power to endure. That said, denim isn’t sustainable by default in every sense of the word, and you can very quickly ruin jeans simply by throwing them into the washing machine without much thought. It’s easy to get the blues when thinking about how the traditional use of water, dyes and chemicals all contribute to the fabric’s environmental impact, too. The good news is that we’ve gained insight from a care-and-repair expert to help make your denim last, and brands such as Agolde, Chloé, Fforme and Toteme – all included in our NET SUSTAIN edit – are leading the charge by switching to kinder materials and implementing mindful processes. Read on to discover more.
Organic matters
When it comes to doing denim differently, Citizens of Humanity is a key name to know. To sum it up: the team behind this LA-based brand want you to feel good in your jeans – not only because you feel stylish wearing them, but also because you feel assured that they’ve been made in a way that’s respectful of people and planet. Qualifying with flying colors for NET SUSTAIN’s Considered Materials attribute, where at least 50% of the materials used are grown and produced with a significantly reduced environmental impact, its ‘Ayla’ jeans are cut from 100% organic cotton. Why does the percentage matter? Well, not only have no pesticides or synthetic fertilizers been used at the growing and production stage when something is 100% organic, but no elastane (also known as spandex or Lycra®) has been added to the fabric to make it stretchy, either – and don’t worry, this pair is soft and comfy enough without it. It might not seem like much, but elastane is an oil-based synthetic fiber that won’t break down, and when a fabric is made from a blend of different fibers, the garment becomes far more difficult to recycle at the end of its lifespan. The result: those once-loved jeans likely end up in landfill.
Farming for the future
Organic cotton isn’t the only choice you can make that’s an alternative to conventional cotton. Citizens of Humanity is joining forward-thinkers like Stella McCartney to look at the positive impacts of regenerative cotton. Working directly with farmers in the United States and abroad to promote the education, adoption and growth of regenerative agriculture, Citizens of Humanity is in the process of moving all products to regenerative cotton in support of holistic farming practices that increase soil health, improve biodiversity and reduce carbon emissions. Also based in the US, premium denim brand Frame is already using the fiber to create some of its coolest designs. Modeled by Gisele in a campaign celebrating denim in dramatic proportions, the utilitarian ‘MC’ jacket is made with 80% regenerative cotton and 20% post-consumer recycled cotton. Featuring multiple off-kilter pockets and a drop-waist belt, the jacket is so oversized that it can even be worn as a mini dress when the weather heats up. For now, layer it over slim-fitting jeans to balance to the volume.
Location, location, location
When it comes to a garment’s environmental footprint, it’s not only what your clothes are made from that counts, but also where they have been made. To qualify for NET SUSTAIN’s Locally Made attribute, at least 75% of a brand’s products must have been manufactured within their own community or country. Included in the edit, Mother is proudly committed to supporting local craftsmanship in Los Angeles, and 99% of its pieces are made within a 14-mile radius of its design studio. A savvy spring investment in off-white, ‘The Lasso’ jeans have a straight-leg silhouette, while ‘The Half Pipe Sneak’ pair is cut in the slouchy wide-leg shape that’s trending now. Also based in the sprawling California city, Slverlake draws inspiration from the diverse landscape of its home town and uses quality materials to build clothes that stand the test of time – the brand believes every eventual mark or tear tells a story and should remain a part of your journey. Style its ‘Detroit’ denim jacket, which riffs on trucker styles, with chocolate-brown pants and a vintage leather shoulder bag.
How to look after your denim
Here’s how to get the most from your denim, according to Layla Sergent, CEO and founder of expert repair-and-alterations service The Seam…
1. Wash infrequently, on cold: “Washing your jeans as little as possible is key to preserving their durability. Instead of washing after each wear, let your jeans air out between wears, before returning to the wardrobe. You can also spot-clean minor spills or hand-wash a small section of the material. When it’s time to put your jeans in the machine, use a 20- or 30-degree cycle. A cold wash is particularly important for black and dark indigo denim. Along with washing as infrequently as you can, cold water will preserve the dyes.”
2. Wash inside out: “Before tossing your jeans into the washing machine, turn them inside out. This helps to minimize friction between the denim and other fabrics, reducing the amount of color loss.”
3. Air dry and avoid creasing: “When hanging jeans to dry, use your hands to smooth out any creases or wrinkles in the material. This will ensure your jeans require little to no ironing and will prevent noticeable creases.”
4. Tailor length with a magic hem: “In production, jeans are often distressed after being sewn together, which means the material under the stitching at the hem is slightly darker than the rest of the denim. When shortening jeans, we offer a ‘magic hem’ service that reproduces this worn-in look at a shorter length, for a higher-quality finish.”
5. Fit the hips, tailor the waist: “Second to length adjustments, waistband alterations are the most popular denim tailoring service requested on The Seam. If you frequently find jeans that fit well in the hips but are baggy and too large in the waist, it’s best to size up and have the waist taken in by a maker.”
Find out how to extend the life of your clothes with our Repair & Rewear service, powered by The Seam